The Outdoor Kids - Travel the States
Table of Contents
Check out the table of contents of our Outdoor Kids Travel the States blog. From April 13 - July 21, 2015, we traveled on a 100-Day road trip over 12,000 miles in our Subaru Crosstrek XV around the United States photographing 40+ national and state parks. The blog covers our journal entires and photographs from our journey.
We Embark on our Journey
Day 1-2
Hollywood, California
Jalama Beach State Beach, California
Windy Roads, Cliffs on one Side, and an Ocean on the Other
Day 2-3
Limekiln State Park, California
Pfeiffer Beach, Big Sur, California
Monterey, California
In Our Yosemite Home
Day 3-6
Yosemite National Park, California
The Avenue of the Giants
Day 6-8
Sonoma Coast State Beach, California
Humboldt Redwoods National Forest, California
Highs & Lows on Harris Beach
Day 8-11
Harris Beach State Park, Oregon
Good Vibes in Portland
Day 11-15
Portland, Oregon
Bainbridge Island, Washington
Cabin in the Woods
Day 15-19
Snoqualmie-National Forest, Washington
Beaverhead-Door Lodge National Forest, Montana
Mighty Yellowstone
Day 19-21
Gallatin National Forest, Wyoming
Yellowstone National Park, Montana
No Doubt they are Grand
Day 21-22
Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming
Emily’s Film Corner
35mm film processes of the first half of the trip
Simplicity: The Most Beautiful Luxury
Day 22-23
Bighorn National Forest, Wyoming
Then the Rains Came
Day 23-26
Thunder Basin National Grassland, Wyoming
Truly Minnesota Nice
Day 26-28
Lake Shetek State Park, Minnesota
A Tale of Several Cities
Day 28-41
Madison, Wisconsin
Chicago, Illinois
Louisville, Kentucky
Washington D.C.
The Woods are Lovely, Dark and Deep
Day 38
Monongahela National Forest, West Virginia
Headed Down South
Origin Stories
Day 51-72
Signal Mountain, Tennessee
Jacksonville, Florida
Beyond the Road
Day 55-64
Turks & Caicos, Caribbean
Witches, Bourbon, & Swamps
Day 72-74
New Orleans, Louisiana
American Grassland Afternoons
Day 74-80
Black Kettle National Grassland, Oklahoma
Rita Blanca Grassland, Texas
Colorful Colorado Peaks
Day 80-85
Garden of the Gods, Colorado Springs, Colorado
Buena Vista, Colorado
Gypsy Wagon & The Double Arch
Day 85-87
Avalanche Ranch, Colorado
Arches National Park, Utah
Goblin Valley & The Beast
Day 87-89
Goblin Valley State Park, Utah
Capitol Reef National Park, Utah
A City Covered in Gold
Day 89-92
Bryce Canyon National Park, Utah
Zion National Park, Utah
In the Red Rock Wilderness
Day 92-94
Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness, Arizona
Antelope Canyon, Navajo Nation, Arizona
The End of the Trail
Emily’s Film Corner Part 2
Puerto Rico
Oh my goodness. How much fun did we have in Puerto Rico? Seriously, it’s a little fuzzy.
Paris
Day 10 - Emily’s Entry - October 4 - 11:09pm - Hotel du Quai Voltaire, Paris, France
It’s a little room with a slightly peeling blue wallpaper. The door man is distracted, the furniture old, there’s an old smell, the bathroom’s small, but I’ve never been in such a magical, foreign place that feels so much like home. In the car here, after passing the Notre Dame, I started crying. Every detail up to the room made me cry more. I started physically sobbing in the room. It’s the feeling of reuniting after long distance. I can’t shake the feeling that I know and love this city. I usually dislike cities. The thought of leaving Paris makes me homesick yet I've been here 2 hours.
When we were driving here in an Uber, I was talking (poorly) to the driver in French. The driver clapped when we were confused. These people are my people. At dinner, a group of rude, loud English-speaking tourists came in. I subtly shook my head at the waiters and they caught on. These are the weird personality things I do.
I’ve never connected with a place so much in my entire life. I feel like I’m coming home to a previous life. I love the weird, classic art on the walls. I love this small, magnificent room. Everything is perfect.
I don’t understand why I’m so emotional. It’s one of the strangest things I’ve ever felt, like when I thought there was a ghost of a child in my Savannah dorm. I don’t know. Life is weird, but one thing is for sure. I’m super happy.
Day 12 - Corey’s Entry - October 6 - 1:21 pm - Train from Paris to Lyon, France
40 hours in Paris. We made it count. What an incredible city full of inspiration, beauty, and love. We stayed in the in Hotel du Quai Voltaire, Room 22.
Yesterday was our four-year wedding anniversary and a hard anniversary to top. We started the day at the Smith’s Bakery. As we ate, we watched the street lined with bakeries and sidewalks packed with small tables and artisan chairs. Busy Parisians bustled around and lounged in cafes alone smoking.
In the Notre Dame we lit candles. The arches in the halls were larger than I thought. I’ve read about the exact height and length of these structures in textbooks, but standing there in the center of it all changed my perspective entirely. There is so much extravagance, symbolism, and master work in every detail of these buildings.
We found a great way to get around the city. Big. Red. Bus Tour. It’s touristy but swiftly we navigated Paris.
We strolled down the Champs-Élysées while constantly humming the song “Champs-Élysées.” We stopped in Ladurêe Paris for the world’s best macaroons. I’m not fan of the macaroon, but to see Emily so delighted was a treat.
We went to see an exhibit of Irving Penn, one of my favorite American photographers. I love his “lived in” style of still life. Not simply a nice plate with beautiful food. It’s scattered bits, lipstick on the glass, half eaten, and in the moment. Second, it’s inspired Emily and me to do more personal projects. Penn shot for Vogue who sent him on assignments just for inspiration. We should always be creating, sketching, and shooting. Hell, Penn photographed commercially till he was 91! Photographers and artists never really retire. We create until we die.
It started raining as we dined in a nearby cafe eating our croque monsieurs. Another espresso and we were off to the boat. Slowly, we cruised down the Seine, the clouds parted, and sun began to set. Golden hour on a boat tour through magical Paris.
Our night in Paris started off with a bottle of champagne at Le Caveau du Palais. It’s located on the same island as Sainte-Chapelle. Our waiter Youn and Emily decided that night he would speak English and she would speak French. It made for amusing dinner scenes. After the best risotto I’ve ever had, we downed some Irish coffee and stumbled to the Louvre courtyard. We danced, wandered around, and peered in the glass windows. The night became quiet. As we walked through a stone arched hallway holding hands, a lone cellist began to play a romantic tune. We slowly danced. I gave him several quid.
As we headed home, the Eiffel Tower lit up and sparkled like a firework. It does this every night for only five minutes. Perfect timing.
We wound down the night with two glasses of fine Cognac at the hotel. We discussed life, art, and ourselves. I absolutely love good conversation over fine liquor.
Day 12 - Emily’s Entry - October 6 - 1:28 pm - Train from Paris to Lyon, France
Paris was one of the best times ever. Yesterday was one of the best days of my life. After a restless sleep, we got ready and headed for a petit-dejeuner (breakfast). We went to the Smith Bakery. I savored my tarte de pomme with cappuccino, Corey his salmon quiche with espresso at the small sidewalk table.
Walking through the mysterious, artistic masterpiece of architecture that is the Notre Dame, I felt small but safe under the towering columns. Chapels, relics, masterpieces, tombs, and secrets run a lap around the main worship space.
We hopped on a double decker tour bus. I’m not a fan of seeing them, but in a huge city, tour busses really are a great way to see the city and get to the sites we want. Our ticket included a double decker boat tour too. We saw old buildings, people on bicycles, and street merchants selling things from antique books to antique junk.
We walked the infamous Champs-Élysées cheerfully eating colorful macarons and around L'arc de Triomphe de l'Étoile that Napoleon built as a focal point of huge parades.
We saw the Irving Penn exhibit at the Grand Palais des Champs-Élysées. He was a NYC based fashion, still, and anthropological photographer. He shot for Vogue and himself in New York, Africa, and South America. We were inspired by his techniques and thought of ways to build our own studio better. We came up with a shoot idea about working people we will photograph in an homage reflective of his own style.
We got back on the bus until the Tour de Eiffel. France has a ton of security right now. We had our bags checked before the Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame, the boat ride, Sainte Chapelle, and the Grand Palais. Soldiers walk around with full army tactical gear carrying machine guns. It’s a safe but uneasy feeling that reminds us of pre-World War II.
The Eiffel Tower took us high above Paris. We felt the tower sway a bit! Yesterday was also was our 4-year wedding anniversary. We drank champagne on top of the Eiffel Tower. Is there anything more romantic?
We ate a late dejeuner at a nearby cafe. Two croque madames with wine and the best espresso I’ve ever had. It began to rain as we ate. We really like each other.
We walked to the tour boat. When the rain stopped, we went to the open top deck. Bridge after bridge passed overhead. Paris has 37 bridges over seine. Crazy! The sun came out as we ended the ride back at the Eiffel Tower.
To the hotel, all dressed up, then out to dinner. I let the waiter order for me. A huge, delicious steak with potatoes and bearnaise sauce came out. I’ve adored the French people I’ve interacted with.
We walked back to the hotel slowly, through the courtyard of the Louvre as the full moon lit our path. We peered into rooms with large Roman statues. A cellist began to play in an ancient corridor. We danced and held each other. The Eiffel Tower shimmered, something it does for 5 minutes at full dark. I can’t believe we saw it happen. It made me think of French cinema, which is similar to American films, but there is always one surreal, magic thing.
This morning after breakfast, we fulfilled an art history dream of mine. We visited the mind-blowing Sainte-Chapelle royal chapel. It was the royal family’s secluded chapel walled from regular citizens. The windows are depictions of every book of the Bible in masterwork stained glass.
This was part of a 23 day journey through Iceland, France, and Spain. Didn't catch the rest? Click below to explore with us!
Lyon
Day 13 - Emily’s Entry - October 7 - 5:03pm - City Square, Lyon, France
I’ve heard French people love to protest. One guy in a loud group told me, at first in French, then English that they were the left side protesting the right side. In another language with people I don’t know, it all seems so silly, left vs. right, compared to the problems in the U.S. right now. I shy away from being political. Corey and I saw a group march through the street, for what? They yelled toward them fists up, for what? I’m not sure I really care.
A few girls came up and interviewed me about what a monster is and who I thought was a monster. I told them I don’t like to say because any answer would make me a monster to someone I love on either political side. I told them monsters are made by perspective.
Day 13 - Corey’s Entry - October 7 - 5:50 pm - City Square, Lyon, France
Lyon is so different from Paris. There wasn’t much police presence when we arrived in Lyon yesterday afternoon, but police are everywhere now. There are at least six officers on each bridge covered in riot gear with massive protection and police vans patrolling all the streets. It’s strange, because the overall atmosphere is calm.
Emily and I were walking downtown when a small group of people began to run down a street. Soon after, a larger group appeared following them. Sirens went off. They group began to yell and run with raised fists. We held hands and made our way away from the groups towards the river.
We were told the French really like to protest. The train station was nerve racking with a loud protest marching around creating a large scene. I’m not sure what they were upset about, but they were banging huge drums and made it hard to focus on our surroundings. I know the train stations in France have been terrorist targets lately.
Last night I ate a pig’s stomach at this amazing restaurant.
Lyon is such a beautiful city. The light here falls perfectly onto the architecture.
Emily and I hit up an Art Store for sketching supplies. Then we sat at a cafe and sketched various scenes. It felt right.
Walking around Lyon, I’ve felt like a local, besides not understanding what anyone is saying. I just feel like if I had to hide away or get away. Lyon would be nice.
Day 14 - Emily’s Entry - October 8 - 11:16 am - Train from Lyon to Nice, France
Something keeps taking hold of us on this trip. Maybe it’s all the espresso or wine. Oh, we’re definitely not getting tattoos on this trip.
When we got to Lyon and settled into our cozy AirBNB, I wanted to draw. I had to draw in college and it stressed me the hell out but that day felt different. We found an art supply store. There must be in art school in Lyon. I bought a sketchbook, large rainbow pencil, and sharpener. Corey got the same with a charcoal pencil. I sketched scenes all day as a study of form. They are rough, some quick, some slow, but I like them. You can see how long I spent somewhere by the detail. For work, I constantly set up scenes with food, objects, and people. Sketching helps me pay attention to what natural is.
Dinner in Lyon is an affair. The 1st night, we went to Restaurant Chez Mounier. The best restaurants are always packed. We wandered into a place I had heard of. We somehow got the last table near the door. I should have made a reservation! Our waiter Julian was charming! The head chef ran in and out of the kitchen. She seemed to know most of the people dining. It seemed only the coolest people dined there. We couldn’t understand anything on the menu so we had Julien order for us. Corey was adventurous. I said no liver. I ended up with a sausage, egg, cheese type souffle for an appetizer, so delicious. My main entree was a gorgeous and mouth-watering quenelle, a poached creamed fish mixture quickly baked into a creamy red sauce. I’ve never seen or had anything like it. Corey’s main dish was a pig stomach. He ate it all, but no way I’m that adventurous. Then cheese, we weren't ready for this cheese. Maybe one day our palettes will develop but not quite yet. Chocolate brownie in a white sauce to die for.
Last night, we ventured hungry through the windy, small streets. We smelled our way past dozens of incredible, cozy restaurants. I picked a spot we could get into. We were sat at a small table on the street a foot away from the neighbor table. So French! We dined on Salade Lyonnaise, delicious mystery soupe du jour, sausage, salmon, wine, more wine, bread, bread pudding, and chocolate mousse. The older 4 people to my right were lovely. I asked if one lady was a model in French (one of the few schmoozie phrases I know). English speaking Corey even made them laugh. I still had my rainbow pencil and sketched on the paper placemat. I drew Corey between courses. Corey drew me. We made friends with Elo and Natalie, the girls 1 foot away. Elo spoke a little English, I spoke a little French. Corey no French, Natalie no English. We were a funny 4 talking broken Frenglish. The jokes took a while to land.
I felt like Anthony Bourdain, wandering the delicious, windy streets of Lyon, eating too much incredible food, drinking never enough French wine, and somehow making friends despite language and cultural barriers.
I hate speaking in definatives, but it’s true that if you can’t feel inspired in France, you’re not creative.
I expect Nice to be a relaxed, wealthy beach town with sunny skies and great seafood.
This was part of a 23 day journey through Iceland, France, and Spain. Didn't catch the rest? Click below to explore with us!
Nice
Day 15 - Corey’s Entry - October 9, 2017 - 12:30 pm - Lou Kalu, Nice, France
15 days into our trip and I think we’re feeling it. Sore feet and odd travel hours. Nice is different than what I imagined. It’s touristy and has more military patrolling than I’ve seen anywhere else. These guys are all decked out in military gear walking in a diamond formation holding huge assault rifles. The cigarette smoke ever wafting around has finally gotten to me.
The architecture is amazing and amusing. The shutters on the windows in the alleys are picturesq. Sometimes, the shutters are masterfully painted on next to windows.
The pebble beaches and narrow alleys were fun to explore.
For the first time on this trip I feel a bit homesick. On our 100 day road trip I didn’t miss home, I guess because we didn’t have a place to go back to or that LA never really felt like home. Now that we’re more established, I’m excited to get back to work and to my life in Chattanooga. BUT there are more towns to explore, rocks to turn over, and sights to see.
Day 15 - Emily’s Entry - October 9, 2017 - 12:36pm - Lou Kalu, Nice, France
Nice reminds me of St. Augustine, Florida near where I grew up. It’s old, colorful, once occupied by Spain, and kitschy. It’s hard to get a local feel when most of the people I see are not local.
We’re going to spend some time at the gorgeous beach then stick to the narrow streets of old town.
Our AirBNB host told us there was an LGBT party below our balcony. He was right. Our balcony overlooked the most fabulous French drag show I’ve ever seen. Around 11pm, the music volume outside turned up and someone had a mic. A male Katy Perry in a white gown with a large sequin bow was singing. The huge crowd cheered, filmed, and smiled at her. I had to go downstairs and shoot this late-night, narrow street, halogen-lit, fierce fashion show. I couldn’t understand a lick of the descriptions by the French host of the evening, but I gathered there was a lady badass, lady glitter fab, lady in red, lady Katy Perry, and a lady classic. It reminded me of summers partying in West Hollywood, CA. My friends in in WeHo would have enjoyed the show. I sure did.
Day 16 - Corey’s Entry - October 10, 2017 - 12:11 pm - Train to Arles, France
My mind wanders, drifts and contemplates as I watch the French countryside out of the window of this train. Is there such a thing as too much time to think? I start to question myself on completed thoughts. Do I really have it figured out? I think so. I haven’t had any epiphanies yet on this trip. I guess I’m an artist. I think creatively most of the time. I have technical skills. Emily truly embodies that of an artist. In her free time, if she’s not playing the an instrument, she’s painting or sketching. She dances through the streets and makes up these stories that are so creative. I love her mind, it’s as beautiful as she is. I think I’m hard to follow. I change, but she’s perfect for me because she understands.
I love to capture how light falls and to play with colors. I like to photograph people, though most make me nervous. Emily has wonderful ideas and I think I’m really good at motivating her and helping accomplish those ideas. We’re a team.
A medium in Cassadaga, Florida once told me I was afraid of my potential. That fear of success would hold me back. I think of that often, but I’m not afraid to fail. Failing to me isn’t the end of something as video games would tell you. It’s just another lesson and a great way to learn. Maybe I’m concerned with wasting time trying something that turns out pointless. Maybe that is the fear. I hate the idea of wasted time and resources. I guess that’s something I can work on. Take more risk.
“If you’re succeeding at everything you do, then you’re not taking enough risk.” - Jack Lupton, Coca-Cola heir, Chattanooga native who pioneered radical change the city desperately needed.
Day 16 - Emily’s Entry - October 10 - 3:08 pm - Train from Marseilles to Arles, France
We had to change trains on our way from Nice to Arles in Marseilles. Our first train was cancelled so we had to wait another hour in the train station. Last week two female travellers had their throats slit there. You could cut the tension in that train station with a knife.
Our train is stopped right now after 1 minute into our ride. Some conductor ran through and mumbled something in French. All I heard was “Sécurité.”
The train is moving now.
Corey and I are stressed. We have super big imaginations. I don’t know. I’m listening to Taylor Swift to calm down.
Everyone looked in each other’s eyes asking, “Are you the enemy?”
4:02pm
Let’s continue our story in Nice on the rocky, sun-soaked beaches. The shore did not have sand but smooth, grey stones. We laid down and fell asleep in the Southern French sun almost immediately. Corey ventured into the cold water for a bit as I lazily watched. He’s so handsome. Some people on the beach chatted. One older couple sketched. A few women sunbathed topless! If everyone was topless, I might have too.
We walked around town. We got espresso and chocolate cookie gelato in the closest town square. An older lady told Corey he looked nice. He did look great! I’m lucky!
On our way to dinner, we dance walked in the streets and sidewalks like we were part of a ballet. I’ve always thought in another life Corey and I were dancers together. As we dance-walked, someone I didn’t see brushed by and whispered in my ear, “Bonsoir, Mademoiselle.”
This was part of a 23 day journey through Iceland, France, and Spain. Didn't catch the rest? Click below to explore with us!
Arles
Day 18 - Emily’s Entry - October 12 - 9:21 am - Train from Arles, France to Barcelona, Spain
Oh, you know, just country hopping. Let’s see: here are a few things and phrases I learned in France.
Peu - small amount not petite. Most of the time I was telling people I know a small French instead of little French.
Ça va - I thought I was asking “How are you?” I was saying it wrong and talking gibberish to every person, like every person. Man, I tried.
Pizza toppings - I can kinda recognize vegetables and kinds of ham now.
All French wine is good. We know because we drank all of it.
Sud is south, ouest is west, nord is north. Don’t expect me to be able to pronounce it all.
Beautiful French rivers and bridges seem to never end. The lovely people appreciated the little French I attempted to know. It’s a country I’d love to visit again and again. She breathes with fire and liberty, constantly looking for the next step out of the ancient ways right after this pinot and last cigarette.
Arles was enchanting. It’s a sleepy, old town where Van Gogh painted 200+ paintings. Picasso also frequented the historic city. We ate dinner at a local, outdoor cafe where we came up with the idea to go to New York City in the spring or summer for 5 days, rent a studio for 4 days, and hire models to shoot and experiment lighting a series of nudes. I don’t have any social motivation or specific ideas about the shoot yet, but it’s out of our comfort zone and an exciting challenge.
Right now on the train, I can hear people speaking in French, Spanish, and two older British women trying to figure out basic Spanish phrases. I’m glad to know some basics in Spanish, and I know my accent is way better than French. French is hard!
Riding through the French/Spanish countryside in beautiful. It reminds me of Monet and Van Gogh. Tall evergreens overlook golden fields.
In Arles, we visited a 2000-year old Roman built theater and colosseum. Over the millennia the colosseum has been used for gladiator fights, as a fortress, as the town center, and now for bullfighting. I imagine the roar of a blood-thirsty crowd as I walk from a dark hall into the blinding light of the arena.
We walked along Le Cloître Saint-Trophime. Reliefs donned 12th to 14th century romanesque and gothic corridors depicting Biblical stories.
Life moves too quickly. Before, I knew it Iceland, France then Spain. Before I know it, home again. The only moment that matters is this one and what we do in it.
We visited The Fondation Vincent Van Gogh Arles. The theme in the museum was how Van Gogh made many of his pieces by forgoing his wealthy life to live the life of a peasant so he could relate to the common people. They had some seriously lazy shock art to see before seeing the Van Gogh. One “exhibit” was just a tent made out of tarp. Making “art” about the common man or lower classes, which can only be understood by someone with at least a B.F.A. is a paradox. Van Gogh’s art can be appreciated by anyone. It takes you away to that feeling in a moment in a place. It’s a shameful thing to exploit a subset of underprivileged people who may not be able to afford to see, understand, or even read the explanation behind your work. I told Corey, a joke isn't funny if you have to explain it.
We ate sandwiches by the river on the sidewalk. We watched the water and talked about what makes art good. I think art needs to be emotional and/or functional. The emotional part is where art varies for people. We all connect with different things. Imaginations vary, so does context.
We visited the 4th century AD Baths of Constantine. It was a public place to bathe for the masses. We found out Arles was a Roman capital in the early centuries AD.
We ended our tour of Arles at Le musée Réattu. It’s a large, old house on the river full of masterpieces. The main exhibit featured the works of Jacques Réattu from the late 1700’s. The works had to do with Greek and Roman ancient tales of Gods and political figures. They placed the pieces next to other masterworks of same scene painted in the same year with preliminary sketches of the subjects bodies and clothes. I love seeing the similarities and differences two masters create. One work we saw was half completed.
11:31 am
We just crossed into Spain!
12:08 pm
I’m glad I have a home that is so wonderful I miss it. Life is pretty good in the states. We have a good company, family, friends, puppy dog, and the future looks good in this moment. I am grateful to have a wonderful home to miss.
As a human, I am glad to have the understanding of being a stranger. In the states, it’s easy to dismiss people who don’t speak the language or understand our seemingly basic social rules. Is it too Kerouac to say the following? To understand the stranger, you must become a stranger. I practiced French everyday for 4 months, the best I could, even if I just practiced with a phone app and Scout. With all of that effort, I found myself with the same speech as a 2-year old who knows the word for wine in several languages. The whole the time, I wasn’t even saying “I speak a little French” right.
I so appreciated the people who had patience with me and treated me like a person instead of a dangerous or pestering stranger. I tried to be polite, follow the rules, and not make a fool of myself. I wasn’t able to communicate the thing I wanted or tell a joke or say the things that would relate me to another person. I did know how to talk about my dog. That was nice.
Day 18 - Corey’s Entry - October 12 - 9:28 am - Train from Arles, France to Barcelona, Spain
We’re heading to Barcelona, which is currently in government conflict as Catalonia is trying to become an independent nation, so there’s that.
Arles was a quiet quaint town, just as I imagined. Small town vibes. Restaurants close whenever the owner feels like it and everyone seems to be okay with that.
I had no idea there was so much Roman influence in Arles. We walked through ancient structures some built in B.C. and the 4th century. I’ve never climbed something so ancient, well that’s not true. I bet some of the rocks in America are older.
Before embarking on this trip I thought I would experience all these epiphanies, especially in Arles, the city that inspired Van Gogh and frequently visited by Picasso (he favored the bull fights). Like in Iceland, no radical, life changing moments. I don’t need one! I’ve gathered new ideas and picked up bits of inspiration everywhere we have travelled. That’s what I needed. To step back from the canvas and take a deep breath. I feel I’ve found what I was looking for and I feel ready to get back to work.
We have new ideas for our studio, future projects like the Penn inspired photoshoot and traveling to New York. I now have ideas of what I need to improve in my life and career. I won’t go into it all.
Arles was a wonderful town to wind down France. I’m glad I got to see an original Van Gogh and wander the narrow cobblestone streets. We also sat by the river Rhone with our lunch. Emily played with my hair as I laid in her lap.
This was part of a 23 day journey through Iceland, France, and Spain. Didn't catch the rest? Click below to explore with us!
Barcelona
Day 20 - Corey’s Entry - October 14 - 1:02 pm - Barcelona Train to Madrid
I don’t know if it’s that Barcelona has been a terrorist target recently or the Catalonia vs. Spain conflict that has the locals so furrowed and impatient, but locals do not want to talk to us. Uber is not allowed and taxi drivers are the best option. If they aren’t ignoring your attempts at conversation, they are turning up the radio over your personal one. I feel for these people though. They so desperately want something that Spain is not giving them. They want to be heard. I’m sure the exhausting droves of tourists coming to Barcelona every day has worn on the locals. Even Emily got some undeserved glares in response to her bright greetings. The city feels tired and divided.
Regardless of all the negativity surrounding the city we managed to make the most of it. Barcelona has some of the best sangria. After we had two pitchers at lunch, I declared it. At a beach hut, we watched immigrants selling tapestries, trinkets, drinks, and even massages! Pretty people tried to look good while tossing a frisbee terribly into the sand. Mostly though we watched other people relax and take a break from life.
We visited the Picasso Museum where we got to see his early work. He was only 14 when he painted masterworks. I sincerely appreciated walking through and watching an artist struggle to find himself.
That night, we had dinner at Restaurante Hofmann. On our third dessert with a bit left on the plate our waiter, Eric, came to our table. He looked at the plate and said firmly, “Not finished” then walked away. I looked at Emily and we laughed as if he had said” No, you’re not done.” Though we were full, we finished it. Every bite. You had to order dessert at the beginning when you ordered your whole meal because it took at least an hour to prepare. These were the most creatively plated desserts I’ve ever seen. One dish had cranberry sauce in a small sugar glass. As soon as he sets the plate down, he knocks it over with a fork shattering the sugar glass spilling the sauce over the plate.
Day 20 - Emily’s Entry - October 14 - 1:12 pm - Train from Barcelona to Madrid, Spain
The thing I’ve realized about Spain so far is that, from my opinion, it is a very serious country. People in France are playful, fun, and passionate. They appreciate a well-timed knowing wink. Spanish history includes a lot of exploration, Catholicism, and well-implemented rules, which have created a culture of serious citizens who have great pride in their people and country. I have many questions about Barcelona.
The people I’m sure are lovely, but anytime I had my camera out, I received glares and scowls. To be fair, let’s talk about this: SO. MANY. TOURISTS. Barcelona seems to have as many tourists as Paris or New York, but the city is not nearly as large or well-equipped for these extra people. The tour bus had a long line. We had to wait for 2 busses before getting on. Everything you might want to see required a ticket booked days ahead of time, even the churches! Barcelona needs more stops or museums for people to pour into. I definitely get the feeling of being unwanted here. I don’t know. When traveling, people, remember to be respectful, keep it to a dull roar, and to pay attention to local social rules you don’t know yet. People who don’t do these things ruin it for everyone else.
We arrived in Barcelona on the National Spain Day, you know, the day Columbus valiantly discovered and conquered the Americas. Don’t get me started on ol’ Chris Colombo. Anyway, it’s a huge day of pride for Spain, which is interesting because right now Barcelona and the Catalonia region of Spain are trying to secede from Spain and become Catalunya. Graffiti around town reads “Stop Fascism.” It’s a whole thing.
So back to the national pride day
in a city that doesn't want to be part of the country.
that celebrates the country’s conquer of other countries, which they no longer control.
Otherwise, Spain Day is pretty fun! We went to the Parc de la Ciutadella. Tons of people were out gathering on the lawns, picnicking, some smoking weed, groups bicycling, families headed towards the zoo in the park! We wandered to the center fountain designed by the young Antoni Gaudí. People took paddle boats onto the small ponds as they waved at the ducks and geese. We walked from the park along a pedestrian road toward their Arco de Triunfo. Performers set out their hats for coins. We saw bubble artists, an amazing paint can drummer, old-fashioned photographer, and a one-man band. One performance that stood out was a couple with 5-foot wide metal hoops they stood in and spun around while doing tricks. I’ve never seen anything like it.
We caught up with my old friend Sam Mason I haven’t seen in 8 years! We were camp counselors together. He’s working as a crew member on a yacht docked in Barcelona until February.
On our second day, we wandered into a beautiful, old Catholic church. Morning light from open windows high above poured into the church lighting up figures in the inner sanctuaries in a heavenly fashion.
We headed to one Gaudí Museum. It was sold out for days. We headed to the Sagrada Família. It was sold out for days we learned after getting on and off a crowded bus and slowly pouring through crowds. We decided to walk through town.
Did I tell you while walking to the Reykjavik airport to leave for Paris, I fell and rolled my ankle? Sometimes it acts up while backpacking around. Anyway, so we walked through the city. We passed a bullfighting ring. One man sat waiting for people who wanted tickets. Not one tourist there. I don’t know why I didn’t realize matadors kill the bulls at the end of a bull fight. So sad. There’s a general push toward banning bullfights in Spain. I heard one person say, “People don’t want to see scared animals run for their lives anymore.”
We happened on a large, local market. People sold all kinds of things. They gave us go-away-tourists glares. It’s cool...
We made it to the coast and down to the restaurant Les Deliciosos. So good. A fantastic beach cantana. Croquettes, nachos, 2 hours of my ankle elevated, and 2 pitchers of sangria later, Barcelona was wonderful again.
I’m having a slow allergic reaction to what I’m sure is a spider bite. Real cute.
That night we went to the Picasso museum. We were able to snag tickets for 6pm. It was amazing. We saw his early works. His early sketches and process of finding himself. Apparently, the museum closes at 7pm. They shooed us out without apology or warning at 6:45pm. They hate tourists it seems. We were ¼ way though. Cool.
We took a taxi to the incredible Restaurante Hofmann. Spanish wine, mooze bouche, mushroom carpaccio with panko fried egg yolk, deconstructed lobster ravioli, honeycomb fig dessert, the most incredible tiramisu I’ve ever had. The waiter shattered a sugar glass at the table of currant sauce for us to dip our creme brulee filled flash fried rice paper vanilla crisps in. Amazing.
This morning, we visited Park Güell designed by Gaudí. The park is famous for his modernista style designs and surrealist influence. Gaudí’s buildings look like where mermaids live. They remind me of the first science fiction films, which were more of scenes like from mythology such as Poseidon and his emerald kingdom. Gaudí masterfully utilized broken tile to create colorful, rounded sand castle-like houses, villas, and performance spaces.
This was part of a 23 day journey through Iceland, France, and Spain. Didn't catch the rest? Click below to explore with us!
Madrid
Day 22 - Emily’s Entry - October 16 - 1:32 pm - Terraza El Ancla, El Retiro Park, Madrid, Spain
We’re sitting at a park cafe at the largest park in magnificent Madrid overlooking the large central pond. People are paddling row boats. People are walking past. Somalian street vendors ran by with their sacks of goods. Police soon followed. A clarinet player plays middle eastern ballads. A man sells bracelets. A pigeon finally settled on his lightpost. A ram in a gold cloak waits for money to do whatever it is he does for turistas.
Madrid is a wonderful place to end this journey.
Day 22 - Corey’s Entry - October 16 - 8:01 pm - Sports Bar, Madrid Airport, Spain
The journey comes to an end after a few good days in Madrid. An excellent city to finish up the trip. We have spent these last two days wandering around the city and exploring the culture. The energy from Barcelona to Madrid is very different. Though the Spaniards are still pretty serious, they seemed to be in better spirits in Madrid. One of the restaurant owners told us that everyone who comes to Madrid is a local.
It was my first time visiting a royal palace. It had like 2,500 rooms? Most of them were for a single purpose like dressing, waiting, reading, deciding, ruling, picking out dishes, dying, etc. Each one was decorated differently, though most had holy paintings adoring the ceilings. We made our way to the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum. Amazing pieces of work. We got to see up close artworks from Thomas Cole, Picasso’s cubism, Degas’ ballet scenes, Monet’s dream like impressionisms, Dali’s twisted sense, and discovered a few new artists.
On our last day, we left our huge bags we’ve named Big Yellow and Lumpy in a coffee shop where they hold bags for travelers. We took our other bags Baby Blue and Lima Bean with us. We wandered around the huge park and reflected on the trip. I wanted to learn and understand different cultures, and I think I definitely have a better understanding than I did before. Things can often be tough, but acts of kindness can be found around the corner if you look. America has her problems, but she is beautiful, wonderful, and wild. Just be nice and treat people with respect and kindness. It’s not that hard. Europe has incredible history, massively ornate cathedrals, grand cities and quaint small towns. I’m lucky to have traveled through these lands and spend some time. There’s so much more to explore.
Day 23 - Emily’s Entry - October 17 - 9:48 pm - Shuttle from Atlanta, Georgia to Chattanooga, Tennessee, United States of America
I can travel the world or stay in my living room until the end of days. As long as Corey is by my side, I am Home. He is my walls, my comfortable white noise at night. I can go anywhere, do anything or nothing with my constant. I’m glad to always be Home.
He’s dozing off in the seat next to me as the streetlights go by.
We’ve baaed at sheep, lived in a van, walked the Champs-Élysées, seen the Eiffel Tower at night, drank great, cheap wine, danced with French drag queens, were stressed in a train station, walked the streets of gladiators, kings, and artists, talked endlessly about culture, art, and why people are the way they are, sketched, and loved each other. Pretty great trip.
This was part of a 23-day journey through Iceland, France, and Spain. Didn't catch the rest? Click below to explore with us!
Iceland Pt. 2
Day 6 - Corey’s Entry - September 30 - 5:30pm - Westfjords, Iceland
Listening to “One Day” by Matisyahu. Emily is driving. I thought on this long epic drive about the state of the world. Here in Iceland, sheep herders gather their lost flock who have wondered terribly far. Mist and clouds wrap around mountains. Waterfalls shape the landscape and locals peacefully sit in hot springs enjoying the silence. Back in Chattanooga, people are building, growing together, and peaceful (for the most part). I think of the rest of the world plagued by so many terror incidents. It weighs on my mind sometimes. I feel for those in peril and harbor anger for those harming others senselessly. One day, I hope we can find peace or a balance. I would love if the world could stop fighting, simply let people live their lives, and enjoy this awesome Earth together. I feel like humanity at times has lost its sense of direction.
Side Notes:
Creativity needs sleep too.
Get the Fjord out there and start exploring! Emily has more jokes.
Day 6 - Corey’s Entry - September 30 - 10:25pm - Drangsnes, Iceland
There is nothing more satisfying than soaking in a hot spring at a local spot after a long day. These hot springs warm you to your soul like in Zelda when you drink pumpkin soup. It fills all my hearts. It may be 8˚C outside, but after a soak, it’s not that chilly.
Driving the Fjords was absolutely amazing. Clouds filled the canyons. At times, as we ascended higher, it got really eerie like after an epic battle scene.
We saw the largest waterfall I’ve ever seen today. A King Kong size waterfall that made me feel so small. We drove through an one way, miles long tunnel! Oncoming traffic had to pull over into nooks as we drove past. The walls were rough and raw like they just blasted through and paved a road. I could feel the pressure of the mountain above.
I lost my voice now as I continue to grow more sick. I’m pretty sure I need a Z-pack of antibiotics. I realized today when I ran up Skogafoss and stood at the cliff edge as the wind and beauty of the landscape hit me I thought I would have an epic revelation about life. I thought I would suddenly realize my life’s purpose, but I heard and felt nothing like that. I almost teared up at the beauty, but no call to action. Now I realize I’ve already found my life’s purpose. I have my faith, my soul mate, the best dog, a wonderful home, loving family, and amazing friends in the best town, Chattanooga. I have so much to be thankful for. I’m not saying these things make my life’s purpose, I’m saying my choices, dedication to what I wanted, and a bit of luck led to these things falling into my life. Knowing your purpose isn’t listing what you have, it’s a feeling of accomplishment. I don’t need to search for life’s purpose. All I have to do is enjoy life and keep challenging myself. Life doesn’t have to be all about finding and searching. Perhaps you don’t realize, you’ve already found it or it’s just around the corner and you’re so close. Maybe I don’t have it all figured out and this is nonsense, but I know that I’m happy doing what I love and I hope to help others find what they love, what makes them happy.
On photoshoots, Emily and I work a certain way. I’ll shoot wide and she’ll shoot tights. Today, she told me I see the bigger picture and she the details. We see life the same way we photograph.
Day 6 - Emily’s Entry - September 30 - 10:30pm - Drangsnes, Iceland
This is my favorite campsite. It doesn’t have fancy showers or an incredible waterfall, but the host came up immediately, only one other camper is here, and things are tidy. Oh, and the hot springs. Why has it taken us 4 days to dip into a free, local hot spring?! When we arrived here in the dark, we weren’t sure this was a campsite. This is basically a parking lot next to a small community center. I felt tired and grumpy.
Corey really wanted to visit the hot springs the host told us about. Before getting in hot springs, they are serious about the fact you have to shower naked. It's also like 40 F outside. Wet, 40 F Emily in a bathing suit is not a very cheery person. I had a serious inner-struggle but ended up going. The natural hot tub on the ocean felt amazing. I altered between hot in the tub then cool in the cold Icelandic air. I feel warm and happy like I’m at home. The springs are amazing for aches and sorrows after sleeping in a van for 4 nights.
Today we drove around the incredible Fjords. Fjord jokes:
- Praise the Fjord.
- Fjordy, Fjordy, look who’s Fjorty.
- Fjord yes!
- Can you Fjord me that e-mail?
Tall mountains overlook long, peaceful inlets. I saw a seal with a fish in its mouth! Sleepy towns of shepherds and fishermen dot the coasts with their simple existences. Sheep lazily chew on grass and run away from shepherds.
Someday, I’ll find myself in a trance far away and visit these same quiet Fjord roads.
Day 8 - Corey’s Entry - October 2 - 1:38pm - N1 Gas Station, Blönduós, Iceland
I left my tripod at Skógafoss and lost my thermal henley at a hot spring in Grettislaug. We got a taste of the hot spring life in Drangsnes and needed to get our fix again. Emily found one 20km from our spontaneous campsite in Sauðárkrókur. We arrived at the campsite Tjaldsvæði in the fog and mist thankful it indeed existed. We trekked out to the hot spring. That was a very long, bumpy, misty road. Many pairs of green lamb eyes stared us down as we made our way.
I jumped out of the van and found an old man with an epic fisherman’s beard. This guy was awesome, like he stepped out of the novel Moby Dick. “Yaw!” he hollered to me with an Icelandic/Dutch accent. With his lamp he showed us the way to this small hot spring. The path was dark and frigid. I tore off my shirt and soaked in. A group of Icelanders loudly joined us. I didn’t know how to introduce ourselves, but one of the Icelanders, the birthday girl, recognized our heavy southern accents we turned on to have our own secret language. English is like galactic basic. Almost everyone recognizes it and/or speaks a bit of it. She asked where we were from and we told her, “Tennessee, ya know Jack Daniels.” Then everyone agreed, “Oh yea! Whiskey!” We spent the rest of that night hanging and laughing with them. They were students from a horse school north of the springs. We tried to pronounce Icelandic words and they asked me to say cliche country phrases like “Yee Haw!” and “Howdy Partner.” I really enjoyed that night.
We left in such a hurry because of the cold air that I forgot my shirt and decided to return in the morning for it. I really loved that shirt. The old man remembered me and helped me look as he cleaned up after morning spring goers. Nothing. Oh well, it’s just a shirt. He said maybe they picked it up accidentally, and I told him it was alright. He said, “Maybe those girls kept it as a souvenir to remember you by.” He laughed to himself and returned inside his cabin. Emily told me she hopes they do have it, and when they’re riding Icelandic horses she hopes they wear it and feel like a country cowboy from Tennessee, America. I like the thought of that.
Day 8 - Emily’s Entry - October 2 - 1:44pm - N1 Gas Station, Blönduós, Iceland
Yesterday morning after coffee, we walked around the sleepy town of Drangsnes. It’s a quaint fishing village with functional houses. Every town it seems in Iceland has a N1 gas station, small stone church in the center, and calm-demeanored, lovely blonde people.
We visited a witchcraft and sorcery museum. We were given detailed spells on how to gain wealth, cause storms, and control our sheep. Some of these spells were super strange. It made me think about how poor it must have been to live in a stone hovel covered in grass with a dozen feet of snow piled outside. These times of sorcery, people had no electricity or money for the little fuel available. Life was dark, cold, hungry, and miserable for so many years in the dark ages. I guess dire times can call for drastic attempts at a better life.
We’ve seen so many sheep. Holy crap! I love sheep, and even I’ve had my fill of sheep here.
I love seeing horses on the side of the road. Some are friendly, yet most are timid of people. There are many foals in the herds. When we walk up, the older horses hide the foals. They gruff or run the pack away. It’s an amazing display of community.
We visited an emerging rock on the coast yesterday. I brought Corey a jellyfish on the black beach. We played in the rock formation like a fort. I love him so much. What an amazing thing to adventure with the love of your life. He completes me.
We visited a site looking for seals. We found a story of love, passion, jealousy, and MURDER! Oh, Natan!!! We read the story of Natan Ketilsson on a plaque. He was an herbalist and lover living on the sea. He had liaisons with several women. One of which was a married woman who he had a love child with. The jealous husband came and stabbed Natan in his bed and burned the estate in a jealous rage! You would think such a place would have a dreadful feeling, but all we felt was the cool North Atlantic breeze, soft grass, the setting northern sun gently on our skin. We like to think Natan’s married lover was forced into an evil marriage at a young age and what they had was beautiful. His arms, her warmth in a cold world. His land by the sea had small inlets. We saw a few sheep on a little island walk across the water to land in a single file line. They reflected in the clear water.
Last night, we drove through the dark on a dirt pothole-ridden road past the green, reflective eyes of 10,000 sheep, “Making Whoopee” in the CD player, to a questionable cottage in the dark. We met an older man with a long, grey beard. He was cheery and led us through the dark, windy, ice cold night to a hot spring. I had trouble getting into the hot water from the freezing air. It was a beautiful bath by the sea. We sat with Germans and a drink until we were joined by 8 Icelandic, Swedish, Danish, and Nordic 20-something horse trainers. Corey and I attempted to talk in our own secret dialect of redneck and ebonics. They asked where we were from. It was a surprising adventure to join an Icelandic girl’s birthday party at 10pm in a thermal pool by the sea down a dark, dirt road. I have to never forget to follow the adventure even if it’s impossible to see your way until you’re right there in the 104 degree water. The most fun thing about an adventure is not knowing what will come.
This morning, I found I had an unidentified, throbbing splinter in the top of my big toe. I hope it doesn’t get infected! We’ll see!
We journeyed to see some basalt rocks! We only got a little lost on our way. We saw some seals laying on a rock. I hear seals like being entertained so I danced and sang for them. I think they liked it! We saw them stretch and turn toward us. We followed the sheep trails through the grass to the coast where we saw the basalt rocks. They are wild!
On our way here, we watched a loose pack of horses run on the road. I could feel the hooves run past me.
Day 9 - Corey’s Entry - October 3 - 11:50am - Golden Circle Road, Iceland
On a hike to Glymur Falls, we asked a few hikers on the way in how far to the falls. A scandinavian girl told us far and that there was a river crossing to a hard hike. She looked Emily up and down and said she couldn’t do it in her boots… Then another European told us we couldn’t cross the river. I said, “Yea thanks, I can do it.” We got fired up. Why tell people they can’t do something? Leave it up to them or encourage them. Don’t discourage unless it’s for sure danger, such as, “Hey, don’t cross the river because there is a savage bear mauling people.” I would say, “Thanks. I won’t go that way.”
When they say, “You can’t do that,” we say, “Hold my beer.”
Day 9 - Emily’s Entry - October 3 - 9:15pm - Reykjavik Campsite, Reykjavik, Iceland
We went to the Blue Lagoon today. It was surreal. White smoke lazily rose over the teal, hot water. Corey and I decided to get tattoos while in France. Adventures, right? Here’s some of my preliminary ideas: I want a moon and arrow with feathers for each love in my life.
Day 10 - Emily’s Entry - October 4 - 3:03pm - WOW Airplane, Keflavik International Airport, Keflavik, Iceland
I am straight up giddy. We are headed to Paris and I’ve always wanted to visit France. J’aime French music, movies, culture, language, cooking, and the way they think. Let’s finish my story in Iceland before we move onto this second chapter of this adventure.
After visiting the basalt rocks, we spent the night in Reykjavik. We went to Apotek downtown for dinner. Corey ordered minke whale. Yeah, whale. I tried some because hell, why not?! When in Iceland. It was similar to ahi tuna, steak tartare, and good. It had a delicious flavor. They served it was crispy shallot and creamy artichoke white sauce. Then we went to the Big Lebowski bar.
Yesterday, we hiked to a cave that lore says a fairy used to live in until a man betrayed the fairy. The fairy turned the man into a whale and placed him in the harbor near town. The whale/man terrorized the harbor for years until the fairy led the whale/man down the river to a lake where the man/whale exploded from exhaustion.
It was sentimental driving that damn van to the airport. I broke the tire rim driving over a pothole or something at some point. I think I’ll have to pay for it. Oh, well, I’m going to France and Spain now so that’s exciting!
I’m pumped to see and experience the rest of this adventure. I think I even need to calm down. I’ve been practicing French since we started booking this trip months ago. I’m nervous that I’m going to speak gibberish to everyone I meet. Everyone is nervous about the current political climate and general terrorism. Honestly though, the rest of the world thinks the same thing about the USA. That there are shootings, bombings, guns, and terror that run rampant in all the streets constantly. We need to stay conscious but free. I’ll next see you in France!
Day 10 - Corey’s Entry - October 4 - 3:05pm - WOW Airplane, Keflavik International Airport, Keflavik, Iceland
We ended our adventure at the Blue Lagoon. A huge hot spring that draws large crowds. After the intense locker room scene with SO many confused, naked men, you step into the 40˚c warm, milky, blue water and the steam carries your woes away. We met a woman working in the water as a mud mask girl named Fanney (pronounced Fay-Nay). She had this adorable swimming cap on and looked like part of a synchronized swimming team. She gave us some white mud and after a quick chat about the countryside of the Westfjords, we floated around for most of the afternoon.
Soaking in the waters of the Blue Lagoon really affects your brain. It was the most relaxed I’ve felt in a long time. We talked about tattoos and decided we would finally get the ones we wanted together. That night, sitting in our Kuku van we drew up designs and shared the last of our Kuku Drinks. Emily fell asleep on me. The moon was full. I was very happy.
This adventure around Iceland was certainly an accomplishment. I survived an illness, endured colder and colder temps, navigated unknown terrain and captured incredible landscapes. I was really impressed with Emily too. She was so strong and was such a positive energy to have along.
One of my goals was to learn about other cultures, and I feel I have a better understanding of the Icelandic people. I also learned that Icelanders don’t dislike tourists as the news says. They, like me, dislike rude people coming to their country and expecting everything to be like their home. Well, it’s not Iowa, it’s Iceland. Don’t come to another country and get mad that they don’t do things the same way. Why would they?
Now that we’ve traveled Iceland, here's what I know. The sun is never directly above you. The wind bites. Lava rock fields as far as you can see, blanketed by green-yellow, spongy moss. Mountains surround you like they just sprung up suddenly and leak waterfalls.
Sometimes, the sky disappears and you arrive in an eerie, foggy landscape with empty fields, save for an old hovel. Stone cairns help guide the lost. Every now and then, there are small forests of birch and bright evergreens. The mountains melt colors of green, red, orange, and yellows. I’ll always remember the long talks with Emily as we drove, cooking dinner inside the van, Oh Natan!, night time hot spring searches, watching the auroras in our sleeping bags at Skogafoss, driving the Westfjords, seeing Taylor, and Emily stroking my hair and singing me to sleep when I felt my worst.
Iceland was svooooogott!!
This was part of a 23 day journey through Iceland, France, and Spain. Didn't catch the rest? Click below to explore with us!
Iceland Pt. 1
Day 1 - Corey’s Entry - September 25 - 10:08am - Atlanta International Airport, Atlanta, Georgia, USA
Emily told me, “There there will be no “Oh, F*****” on this trip. Only, “Oh, yeas.” Just go with the flow. “ I have to say, I was a little nervous about Europe with the incidents of terror and the rain forecast in Iceland. But again we embark on an epic journey and with her by my side, everything will be ok. I am hoping to broaden my spectrum of culture and find new inspiration that sparks creativity.
Day 1 - Emily’s Entry - September 25 - 5:48pm - Boston International Airport, Boston, Massachusetts, USA
We’re sitting in the Boston International Airport waiting for our flight. I’m excited to see how this journey goes. We have very loose plans, but every night we have somewhere to sleep and we know how we’re going to get places. I think Iceland is going to be a beautiful, wild journey of freedom. I look forward to the history and culture of France and Spain.
I told Corey today this will be a no “F***!” trip. When we run into problems, we will respond with, “Ok. What now?”
Day 2 - Emily’s Entry - September 26 - 8:11am - Joe and the Juice, Keflavík International Airport, Keflavík, Iceland
I’m pretty tired. It’s 4am east coast time. We’re going to power through until tonight. We haven't stepped outside yet. We’re waiting on Kuku Camper vans to pick us up.
Funniest thing! We saw Taylor Vice, one of Corey’s oldest friends from high school and his wife Stephanie in baggage claim a few minutes ago! They are taking their own 12 day trip around Iceland’s Golden Circle, the main road that leads all around Iceland. We’re meeting for dinner tonight at Slippbarinn.
Day 2 - Emily’s Entry - September 26 - 3:35pm - Kuku Camper Van, Reykjavik, Iceland
I realized this morning every great adventure I’ve been on began with me thinking, “What the f*** am I doing? This is crazy. I want the comforts of my routine. What have I gotten myself into? This might be disastrous.”
I bought a small wool sweater for $20 from a thrift shop. It’s baby blue with white, green, and pink patterns. I look like a stunna, baby! I really wanted a wool sweater from Iceland! I also bought a $2 CD called “Making Whoopee Favorites of State and Screen.”
Day 3 - Emily’s Entry - September 27 - 3:56pm - Waterfall, Iceland
I’m sitting with Corey by a majestic waterfall. The water must be so cold! Freezing if it weren’t moving. The abundant water coming down appears aqua. This is supposed to be some of the purest water in the world.
We’ve encountered so many people from around the world. We’ve heard French, German, Icelandic, Chinese, Japanese, Austrian, and many others I couldn’t begin to place. As people pass by I try to determine if they’re American or otherwise. It’s usually impossible to tell between people by looking at them.
We walked into this national park along a trail created by tectonic plates separating. We came across a beautiful pool next to a small waterfall. We read how they used to drown women in the pool for crimes around the 16th and 17th centuries. Suddenly, the pool felt somber and the dark rocks more sinister. There were many coins in the natural pool. I imagine there’s a story about the coins for the women who died there. Maybe the coins are to pay the way for the women to get into heaven or maybe it’s to appease the spirits.
I’ve been fascinated by the cultural shift. The Icelandic people are very nice. I’ve never been to such a culture completely concerned with the sake of humanity and the planet. Good for them!
Yesterday, we wandered around Reykjavik. We talked about creativity and inspiration as we drank too much coffee. At one point, I turned around and saw that we walked past a colorful mural donning the entire side of a house. We need to think more about shifting our perspective.
We met up with Taylor and Stephanie for dinner then to their AirBNB for the hot tub. They are my new best friends! We’ll park our van in front of their house tonight. We’re going to throw down!
Driving through the landscape is awesome. Mysterious mountains covered by clouds of fog and light rain reveal themselves intermittently.
The landscape feels ancient like an old man built into the rock. He’s forgotten much of what he once knew, but he knows, like the water rushing down a waterfall, that nothing is forever. The things we think are important are not, and the things we take for granted are the only real things.
I love Corey. I try to tell him constantly.
Day 3 - Corey’s Entry - September 27 - 4:08pm - Öxarárfoss, Þingvellir National Park, Iceland
Unbelievable! We were picking our bags up at the Iceland airport when I hear my name shouted. My old friend from high school Taylor Vice and his wife Stephanie are in Iceland at the same time we are! I haven’t seen him in a long time and really miss hanging with him. We ended up in their AirBNB hot tub that night. We’ll see them again later today.
I was nervous about all the rainy weather predicted for Iceland. The weather is erratic yet amazing. Cloudy to bright sun to a bit of rain and then sun again. All in less than half an hour.
We had an incredible time exploring Reykjavik together. I am so in love with Emily. She’s my best friend, my lover, travel buddy; she's my everything. We both have such adventurous souls that beg to travel and explore.
We’re sitting in front of this breathtaking waterfall. I realized as I was photographing that taking pictures is more than my job. I sincerely love figuring out which lens to use, the best settings, and the filter that will perform the best. I love capturing this incredible world and sharing the photos.
Finally, the world of work and busy life dealing with crisis after crisis is put on pause. I’m in Iceland! Never have I seen a place quite like the Land of Fire & Ice as they call it. We walked between shifting tectonic plates today. The earth literally tearing apart. Humans are born with the need to explore. The urge to see what’s beyond the next hill. Then the one after that. I think I was an explorer in a past life perhaps. It’s tough sometimes and uncomfortable, but I do love it. I want to see and experience as much as I can.
Day 5 - Emily’s Entry - September 29 - 9:26pm - Campsite Dalakot, Búðardalur, Iceland
Current Update: We are waiting for our laundry to get here. I bought a washer/dryer pass at this campsite. The dryer shuts down all the power in the showers, bathrooms, and the entire camp. The camp host took our sopping wet clothes to her house to dry them. How fun for her.
Here’s what’s happened up until now:
Two nights ago, night we tried to meet up with Taylor and Stephanie again. We were lost for 2 hours trying to find their AirBNB, I wandered into what seemed like an empty Eco-Commune mess hall and finally found the wifi I needed to find their place. Corey’s the only one with shoddy phone service. We found them but decided to go to a campsite with more room for the van. It’s cool. We saw our first Aurora Borealis that night.
Yesterday morning, we awoke to a beautiful campsite, made French press coffee, and began our day. Corey woke up that morning thinking he’d have to go to the hospital. He had a severe sore throat. We found an Icelandic Apothecary who gave him foreign meds. What else are you going to do?
We journeyed along the Golden Circle heading east on the southern shore. We came across a gorgeous waterfall, Skogafoss. We frolicked up to it. There's a tale that someone left his huge chest of gold under the mighty falls over 1000 years ago. Corey and I got soaked as we went as far as we could to see behind the falls to the secret pool. We never recovered the chest of gold, but I know it’s there.
Driving here is breathtaking. I LOVE all the sheep everywhere. They are so fat with thick wool. Their tiny legs are toothpicks in comparison to their pillowy bodies and bouncy butts. I LOVE sheep.
Yesterday afternoon, we took our van-made PB&J’s to the black sand beaches on the Southern coast. Rocks rise from the shorelines and caves look like a rectangular, man-made entrance to Superman’s Fortress of Solitude. The black sand is heavier than sand I know. All of the black rock has to do with lava. It seems this entire island country has been recovered with lava.
One stretch of land we passed was covered in cairns. Around 800 AD, a farmer’s land was covered in lava from a nearby volcano. People for 1200+ years have built cairns on the lava field as they pass through for good luck. The lava fields create uneven boulders. A green, thick, spongy, moist moss covers these porous lava boulders. It creates a magical stage to play on. I feel epic watching the low sun as I mount the soft, mossy boulders.
Late yesterday afternoon, we pulled into a gas station to learn a section of the road ahead was closed due to flooding and damages. Iceland has few roads and there are no detours where we were on the Golden Circle. We’re currently backtracking to cool, new, exciting sites. Even with the same drive for hours, the landscape looks completely different with the light. The theme on this leg of the trip is learning to view things from a new perspective.
Last night, we camped at Skogafoss. After dark, we got our drinks and cozied up in our sleeping bags sitting in our camp chairs outside as we watched the incredible Aurora Borealis Northern Lights. The show blew my mind. I sat mouth agape as we watched nature’s best light show. I polished off some shoestring Piknik potato sticks.
This morning, we took a hike to the top of the falls. Today was a sleepy, rainy, slow day full of sheep and waterfalls. We traveled for hours, which oddly turned out perfect.
We drove through the mountains. At the top of one black lava-made mountain, glacier streams gushed by. Mist in every direction created a spooky allure. Large, mysterious carins, some over 6 feet tall, waited in the distance covered by slow creeping moss taking over their porous solitude.
Day 5 - Corey's Entry - September 29 - 9:30pm - Campsite Dalakot, Búðardalur, Iceland
I’m drinking a bittersweet scotch lemon tea out of my Ikea thermos right now thinking about the crazy twists and turns that got us here tonight. We are not where we planned to be. A situation that would have thrown me into a mental whirlwind a few years ago, but now I’ve grown accustomed to swiftly changing plans. According to the loose schedule we had, we are supposed to be in southeast Iceland. We are northwest, because of dramatic road closures.
We pulled off at an N1 gas station and while trying to figure out the pump, another local driver and I were talking. He asked about our next destination on the ring road and I told him about our campsite in Hof. He replied, “You’re not going to Hof.” I looked at him curiously like was he going to stop me or what? He continued to say that the road was completely flooded and closed till next week sometime. The only highway around the Island, closed. We had to rewrite our whole trip. Thank God we only made one reservation. The Kuku Van. And since #WeLiveInAVan we had the freedom to go anywhere.
The night we were supposed to meet up with Taylor we had trouble. Emily’s phone photo of their itinerary was a bit fuzzy, my phone lost service, and it was getting dark. We’ve been in this situation before. Classic us. We knew we were in the right area, but no cabin seemed to fit our vague descriptions. We kept it together, and I’m damn proud of us for that. Emily and I finally pulled into this eco village we passed several times. While trying find help, she entered an empty meeting hall that just so happened to have free wifi. Seemed like a miracle. She typed in the GPS coordinates and found the security gate leading to their place. We were so excited when we got into the area, but found that there 100 identical cabins in the setting sun. We had no idea which one they were in. We somehow managed to get Facebook phone calling to work and found our way to them. Victory!
This whole trip has been one exciting event after another. I’m sick with some dumb virus. This cold weather isn’t helping, but I’m not letting it bring me down. We hit up a few apoteks (pharmacies). All of the medicine is behind the counter, save the natural organic meds. I asked for cough syrup - one kind. Boom. They ring it up immediately. I tried it, but it was very weak compared to Nyquil.
This morning, I ran (halfway, this cough wouldn’t let me run any further) then walked up the steep steps to the top of Skogafoss listening to Apex then Griz Folks’ “Waking up the Giants.” I finally came to the peak, passing sheep grazing on the sunlit hill. I stood at the edge and witnessed the powerful river leading to the waterfall. It was so beautiful, I could have cried. The wind hit me hard. I put my arms out and leaned forward as it held me up. I ran down to get Emily and had to show her.
For the first time, I finally got to witness and capture the Aurora Borealis! Particles from the sun become electronically charged in our atmosphere and create this bright green and purple light. The lights effortlessly flow across the sky like rivers. It’s truly magical. That night, Emily and I stayed by the van drinking Reyka and talking about what our lives might be like if we lost everything. I think we’d use our bottom dollar to move to South America and teach English. Then bring that money back to the states and rebuild. I’d probably landscape too. That could also be the Reyka vodka talking. Bottom line is that we could figure anything out together.
Today was a travel day. I’m glad it rained so much. We saw incredible views. Fields of lava rock blanketed in green plush moss. Random cairns of stones everywhere, some large, some small. We think they are farmers’ property markers. Some seem to be more ritualistic. Waterfalls and sheep are everywhere. Lots of sheep, like all over the place. I love how much Emily loves sheep. They really are simple creatures.
I feel very blessed on this trip, save the sickness. It seems that everything has happened for a good reason. The wifi in the Eco Lodge, dude at the N1 gas station, ending up at Skógar to witness what the camp host said were the most beautiful auroras she's ever seen. We are putting positive energy out into the universe, and I believe it’s responding.
We ended today with a hot shower and tea. I absolutely love Iceland with my van and my beautiful girl.
Side Notes:
How to make our signature Kuku drinks - Reyka Vodka, kind of cold Happy Day cranberry juice, slightly flat Toppur sparkling water served in an old plastic cup.
The camp hosts at Dalakot currently have our laundry. The dryer at the campsite blew the power. For everyone.
Elk sausage is soooooo good.
Camping in Iceland is neat because at some campsites they have shared kitchens. Stoves and sinks for everyone to use. It’s very communal. They also have a shelf of free stuff. Anything you don’t want or can’t take any longer, you can leave for others like butane tanks, olive oil, water, spices, shoes, etc. Not sure you can do this in America though. We have bears, wolves, coyotes, raccoons, possums, all kinds of critters and crazies.
We got some insect bandaids. We had them everywhere.
This was part of a 23 day journey through Iceland, France, and Spain. Didn't catch the rest? Click below to explore with us!
