Then the Rains Came
Day 24 – Emily’s Entry - May 6 – 7:05am - Thunder Basin National Grassland, Wyoming
Rain in the best of times, rain in the worst of times. These past 3 days we have been off road. We stayed the night in the Thunder Basin National Grassland. Yesterday, we drove down a road we thought led somewhere until the road abruptly ended on a plateau overlooking canyons. Honestly, we’re very wet, cold, tired, and grungy. I’d rather not talk about it.
Day 26 – Corey’s Entry – May 8 – 8:20am – Sioux Falls, South Dakota
“If you laugh, you think, and you cry, that’s a full day. That’s a heck of a day. You do that seven days a week, you’re going to have something special.”
For those of you looking over our route map, you won’t find Sioux Falls, South Dakota on the route. I’ll explain:
Currently, my hands are sore, dry, and cracking at the fingertips. My clothes and shoes are mud-caked. I am tired and feeling beaten. A major storm blew through the Midwest and has given us a beating.
On our way to the Thunder Basin National Grassland in Wyoming we got lost and couldn’t find a sign. We drove past mining gear, railroads, and signs that read “Warning: Blast Zone”. It didn’t feel we were in a National Park. After some rough exchanges with digital maps, we used our printed maps and finally found a small, red dirt road with a little sign. By this time, the landscape was getting dark and we could see the clouds weighing down. At one point, eight National Forest Service trucks blocked the ancient, rocky road. After some dicey country boy maneuvers, we got around them and parked atop a flat area surrounded by large rocks jutting out of the ground and short cactuses. The road simply ended. Emily made the choice to call that spot Home for the night.
My mind was split at that point. Emily got a kick out this watching me pace back and forth. The methodic part of me was saying, “Stop. We have to get to the right spot somehow. This isn’t right.” The wild part of me was screaming, “Be wild! Be free! Be adventurous!” I must have walked several circles around the car, like a dog making a bed, before I finally settled on making camp in an unexpected, wild place.
The wind, my God, the wind was howling and blowing hard with light, monotonous rain. We decided to sleep in the car because if lightning struck us, we thought we’d be safer than the tent. It was funny watching Emily fumble into her giant sleeping bag fighting with the steering wheel. All night we tossed and turned trying to get comfortable. It turned into a night full of mini naps. The following morning, the car windows dripped with moisture. I couldn’t photograph due to the fog and rain. Not being able to shoot for a few days really started to get to me.
May 6, we drove into South Dakota and were greeted by a giant Midwest storm. We set up camp at Sage Creek Campground outside the Badlands. As the storm picked up, we scrambled to the wet car to make a cold dinner. During our modest dinner, we watched a buffalo we named Buff eat grass as we shared sips out of a honey whiskey bottle. When I had to use the restroom, I had two options: I could run through the storm to the restroom 30 feet away, or head to the field where Buff was glaring his cross-eyed stare at me. I chose the restroom. Buff was pleased I didn’t approach him.
After a phone call to our weather lady (thanks, Mom), we realized the storm wasn’t giving up. We raced to the tent. Our dry, warm sleeping bags felt safe as strong gusts hit the tent. We held each other and braved the stormy night.
In the foggy morning, our drying rags were wet and everything is touched by mud. On our way out, feeling defeated, we saw a Toyota with wheels spinning in a muddy field just off the road. Without hesitation, we pulled over. A cool guy named Hector stepped out into the mud. I’m sure they were hoping for a country boy in a big pick up truck, but here we were two photographers in a packed Subaru with nobody else around. He and his girl Sydney had their tires four inches deep in mud all around. I saw a rotting, wooden cow pen, and we pulled a couple boards to put under the front wheels. This helped a bit, but still stuck, Emily thinks to use the car carpets under the tires. We also placed some grass from the field under the tires and pushed from the back as Sydney drove forward. Mud covered me from head to toe as we pushed the car to solid ground. Whoo! We needed a win, and it felt good.
Now we’re in a hotel getting our heads on straight. We received some looks hauling trash bags full of muddy clothes and wet gear into the hotel. I know we’ve deviated from our route, but we’ll be back to it tomorrow, with a new hard top carrier (our soft top carrier busted, leaked, and soaked everything up top).
Though it was rough and miserable weather, we kept each other’s spirits up. When I was down, Emily would take lead and lift me up and vice versa. We just finished listening to Where the Red Fern Grows and I can’t help but compare the dogs Old Dan and Little Ann with us. Always together, never apart, treat each other’s wounds, and figure out every challenge together. We’re determined and can’t wait to get back on the road.
Simplicity: The Most Beautiful Luxury
DAY 23 – EMILY’S ENTRY – MAY 5 – 8:50AM – MUDDY GUARD CABIN – BIGHORN NATIONAL FOREST, WYOMING
Last night we stayed in the Muddy Guard Cabin. Before the trip began, I had a small thumbnail image of this cabin. The image was small, but I could see that it was a solitary cabin in the middle of a field surrounded by wildflowers with nothing around for miles. This cabin was my goal. When things got rough, it was great to have a visual goal of something to look forward to. I always imagined this cabin, and it did not disappoint.
After we settled in, we took a hike and saw a herd of graceful deer prance together. At night, we danced to the sounds of an old TV/Radio. Sometimes simplicity is the most beautiful luxury.
Wyoming is so much more than I thought it was. Since Yellowstone, we’ve driven though lush forest, snowy peaks, grassy plains with elk, antelope and buffalo roaming, echoing canyons, and the most incredibly colored rock formations originally inhabited by the native Shoshone people. There are canyons of pure red and rock formations that include every hue of varying texture. I have to admit; I think Wyoming is the most naturally colorful state I’ve seen (this coming from a Florida girl!).
I’ve flown over the U.S. dozens of time visiting Corey on the West Coast when I was on the East during our time long distance. Viewing the country through the window of an airplane does not compare to the experience of driving the land. I had no idea so much was out here. I think the best way to see America is in a car, constantly looking out the window for wild animals, constantly being blown away and humbled by every bold mountain peak, and at an intimate level with the place we call Home.
Day 23 – Corey’s Entry – May 5 – 8:55am – Muddy Guard Cabin – Bighorn National Forest, Wyoming
There’s a lot on my mind today. Lots to reflect on and mull over. First, I’ll just describe this place. Bighorn, WY. Wyoming has so much to offer. In one day we drove from the mountain peaks of the Tetons, through snowy and frozen lakes, farmland, then canyons of layered colorful rocks. Then we arrived to the grassy plains. We’ve seen open fields and big skies. Herds of deer dot the land. Spots of forest can be found everywhere.
Last night was especially exciting for me. I planned on doing a time lapse of the stars, which would require hours spent outdoors late at night in pitch dark, because my light source could ruin the flow of the time-lapse. As soon as I stepped outside, I hear a loud “Ahr, Ahr, Ahroooooooo!!!” It was a wolf or coyote a stone's throw away howling at the full moon. I couldn’t see it, but I could hear it must have been just at the tree line.
An ancient, instinctual fear arose inside of me, and chills ran down my spine. I wasn’t really afraid... Oh wait, yes I was. I kept thinking about listening to “White Fang” on audio book earlier that day. I stayed in and edited that night instead of staying outside. Emily and I ended up in a tan, leather chair, curled up by the fire listening to David Bowie’s “Ground Control to Major Tom” on an old, Magnavox radio. I will cherish that beautiful moment.
My understanding of time changes more everyday on this adventure. Living like nomads, time is so precious and moves so fast. I’m a man of schedules, plans, and routines. One of my biggest challenges has been most of our plans going right out the window.
In the morning, we get up around 6am, make breakfast, pack up camp, pack up the car, reorganize the car, clean everything, then if we have the time, write and photograph. On the road, we often need to resupply, so we go off to find somewhere that resembles a grocery store, a camping store (to replace busted gear), or a diner to charge our devices and blog. Then we can continue heading to our next site. We usually arrive before sunset.
It’s funny looking back at when we thought we would have time to check out the new Avenger’s movie or I could finish that Bill Bryson book I was reading. It amazes us at the end of each day when we look back and realize that every minute of the day was spent working. But everyday feels worth it. I shoot sunrises and photograph the stars. Being productive comes naturally to me; it’s something my mother gave me.
Every day is precious. God limits our days so that we learn to appreciate each one. On this journey we experience the high highs and low lows. It’s important not to dwell on the low moments. As Adam Savage from Mythbusters says, “There is no failure, there is only results.” Get out there and make the most of yourself and your situation! I can’t tell you how important it has been to me to travel in the wild and new cities. If you get out there, you will be surprised what you learn about yourself and the world around us.
Emily's Film Corner
“Shooting on a Nikon F3 with 35mm film, I finally got my film developed in Chicago, Illinois. Here’s a view from my perspective.”
No Doubt They Are Grand
Day 21 – Emily’s Entry – May 3 – 2:10pm – Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming
We just arrived at this lovely cabin in the Grand Tetons. I am a different person than I was when we left 3 weeks ago from our Hollywood apartment. It’s a weird thought that maybe I haven’t been in tune with myself for a while.
It’s scary to crack yourself open. It’s easier to be who people assume you to be than yourself sometimes. Why is it easier to worry of the future than to live in the present?
Day 22 – Emily’s Entry - May 4 – 6:09am – Grand Tetons National Park, Wyoming
We are sitting at Snake River Overlook moments before the sun will hit the highest Teton peak. The range and clouds have a violet hue at the top. The word for the Tetons is “Spectacular”.
We arrived here yesterday and will move on today, but I feel satisfied with what we’ve been able to see. Here in the Grand Tetons, we’ve already seen elk, deer, a few bison, and one moose. The real show is definitely the jagged peaks of the Teton Range. When you first see the range from miles away, there’s no doubt they are Grand.
Day 22 – Corey’s Entry – May 4 – 11:01am – Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming
We only spent a small amount of time in the Grand Tetons and it just so happened to rain. We drove around the park setting up my shots for the following early morning shoot. It’s early May and the park has only just opened, so there were few people, which was nice. We met a nice group at the local bar and grill from Memphis, TN. (I keep finding Tennesseans on this trip!) They were so interested in our story and what we were doing. It gives me strength and feels good to hear encouragement.
We try to not think about the past and future so we can live in the present, but sometimes we’re too tried to catch our wandering minds. When this happens, Emily and I start volleying questions back and forth. Could we keep traveling for years? Will this trip profit our company? Are my photographs professional enough to support us? Doubt can continue until something snaps us back. This morning as dark clouds moved over the snow covered jagged peaks of the Grand Tetons towering before us, we were quiet as those thoughts faded away.
The Tetons are beautiful. We could only choose one of our spots for the sunrise. Snake River Overlook won. This was the same spot Ansel Adams photographed the Tetons for the National Park Service in the 1940’s. As we go to each park, I’m finding where he shot, and I enjoy shooting the same landscapes he did over 70 years ago.
The way the clouds rolled over the peaks really impressed me. It was difficult shooting out of the car in some places with the rain was coming in sideways, but we figured it out. I’m glad Emily is there to push me to work with the rain.
Mighty Yellowstone
Day 20 – Corey’s Entry – May 2 – 8:11pm – Basin Station Cabin – Gallatin National Forest, Wyoming
“Wagon Wheel” is playing on the radio and I’m in love. Snow covers the side roads and mountain peaks. It’s been wild these past few days.
Emily and I are staying in a cabin in Montana that holds a special place in my heart called the Basin Station Cabin just outside of Yellowstone. I feel like a pioneer in this cabin. I split wood outside as Emily gets dinner ready before dark, with mountains surrounding us. We like to think we really could live there. People really don’t need electricity or running water to call a place Home. Last night I danced on the wooden floor in my brown boots simply happy. We also woke up to the sound of far off howling wolves or coyotes last night, but it was fine and we fell back asleep.
That night, I also discovered a new camera technique. I used the nearly full moon as my light source. I was trying to capture stars and clicked a long exposure to see what I could get. To my surprise, the scene captured was vibrant! There were so many colors and stars too.
I’m so glad we have two nights in Yellowstone. Yesterday, we drove around the park all day. Bison were everywhere. I’ve never seen one so close up. I especially like their beards. Em said they move around like they’re on autopilot. I agree. “Buffalo don’t care about your car.“
Then I saw my first grizzly bear. The massive guy sauntered along the riverbank. I’m glad I got at least one shaky shot.
There’s so much wildlife in Yellowstone. The animals here seem so wild and free, the landscapes are breathtaking, and I feel so at peace out here.
Sometimes I think I lost my head in Los Angeles. Now I feel clear and alive. I’m in love.
Day 21 – Emily’s Entry – May 3 – 8:03am - Basin Station Cabin – Gallatin National Forest, Wyoming
We leave Basin Station cabin today for the Tetons. Yellowstone was mighty. We spent the last two nights in a cabin from the 1930’s used for years by the Forest Rangers in the Gallatin National Forest outside of Yellowstone National Park. The cabin has no electricity or running water, but it felt like Home. We haven’t stayed anywhere for more than 3 nights in over 3 weeks, so it was nice to settle in for 2 nights.
Yesterday, we drove to Old Faithful. She was right on time.
We also visited the incredible prismatic thermal geysers and pools. These pools, some over 200ºF, have every color. The centers are crystal blue and range in color to the outer rings including vibrant crimson greens, yellows, oranges, and reds. The sulfur-smelling steam escaped from the pools in a glorious way. I’ve never seen anything like it.
In the park, we saw bison, elk, deer, birds, marmots, and a grizzly bear. The entire park has an ancient feeling. You could easily imagine enormous dinosaurs walking around making the bison look like mice. I would love to backpack through Yellowstone one day.
Cabin in the Woods
Day 17 – Emily’s Entry - April 29 – 11:09am – Bank of the Naches River – Snoqualmie National Forest, Washington
Last night we stayed in our first cabin. It met our simple needs: a bed, stove, and outhouse. The cabin was built in the 1940’s as a live/work station for forest rangers. 2-3 rangers would live there at a time until the 1960’s. It is now rentable to people like us. It was on a peaceful creek and surrounded by beautiful pines.
Our drive through Washington has been breathtaking. Yesterday we drove over a mountain peak with over 3 feet of snow on either side of the cleared road. It feels incredible looking out at eye-level with clouds and viewing neighboring snow-capped mountain peaks. The road we’re driving on winds next to pristine, icy-cold rivers and streams. We’ve seen a dozen or so female elk grazing, sometimes with their young, on the side of the road.
Yesterday, we were low on gas, wanted firewood, couldn’t find our cabin, and it was getting dark. We had been driving around for 2 hours trying to figure where our cabin was. We had no cell service of course. At the peak of our frustration, a glorious, yellow Shell gas station appeared. The attendant Scott was a part-time firefighter and the nicest guy. He sold us firewood at a discount for $4 and magically knew where our cabin was to point us in the right direction. (We still got a bit lost finding it, but we eventually prevailed!) As we pumped our gas, I remembered to take out and read our daily devotional from the book Jesus Calling. It read, “I will equip you as you go so that you can handle whatever comes your way. Trust Me to supply what you need when you need it.” Chills. Whoever doesn’t believe in something more should spend a few days in the woods.
Day 17 – Corey’s Entry – April 29 – 8:15am – BANK OF THE NACHES RIVER – SNOQUALMIE NATIONAL FOREST, WASHINGTON
When you think of a cabin in the woods, what’s your first thought? Mine was of my grandparents’ cabin in Kentucky on Lake Kuttawa. Unfortunately, I also think of horror movies and crazy axe murderers.
Our cabin in the woods last night turned out to be a great, little home in the forest. It’s called the American River Guard Station Cabin. It used to be a station where rangers lived and worked. Now it’s for use by anyone who has $30 to rent it for the night.
You can tell how everyone who has stayed there loved it because they would leave behind kind notes in a guest book. What really impressed me was how much care people put into this home away from home. The act of strangers helping strangers who would stay there next and keep it safe for those ahead is so pleasing. People add artwork, fix appliances, or even just spilt wood for the next guest. I love the idea of taking care of a home for everyone.
Outside, you can see a wood chopping block that brought up some memories from my parents’ house of splitting wood for winter. Nearby, a river runs wild with trout that I couldn’t catch. Fishing is releasing and catching your lure, right?...
That night Emily and I played Mad Libs on the floor drinking wine and I’ve never laughed so hard. Being that deep in the woods can leave you super freaked out or pleasant and peaceful. At times, I did get a bit scared. Especially when we noticed a skinny staircase that led to an empty room in the attic, with three bare beds. With Emily next to me and a bit of distraction, I was able to forget about it.
I am so glad we found this cabin and I hope to visit it again someday with friends and family.
Day 19 – Corey’s Entry – May 1 – 8:09am – Doney Cabin – Beaverhead-Deer Lodge National Forest, Montana
I feel like Alex Supertramp from “Into the Wild” as I write this. I’m sitting on an old classroom chair, like the ones from elementary schools, writing on a makeshift desk with a deck of 48 cards and a candle on a mirror. This is Doney Cabin. It is an old forest mining live/work log cabin station with a wooden peg you slide to open the door, 3 bunk beds, old hunting magazines, a cupboard of tools, and a furnace in the middle that keeps the room extremely warm. I love it.
As we were settling in, a truck pulled up. I waved and said “Howdy!” as a couple got out to greet us. Steve was a retired veteran in service in Europe around 1957 and Kathy was another retired veteran. He wore a cowboy hat that complimented his mustache and huge belt buckle. We got to talking as they were lost and we gave them the best directions we could. He asked me if I needed flashlights. I showed him my headlamp. He scoffed and chuckled as he gave me two military flashlights from his truck. Then he looked me up and down and gave me some jam he picked up at a diner down the road. He said to make sure I eat well.
That night, we found it hard to sleep. It was too quiet. We heard no waterfall, creek, or nearby highway to lull us to sleep. We heard every noise especially the three mice at 3 in the morning. At first, they were annoying. Then they were kind of funny as they chased each other and tumbled around with big ears and tiny feet. Then, I saw one run up the wall and across the room toward us. At that point we were done with them. They squeaked and ran around all night long.
Day 19 – Emily’s Entry – May 1 – 8:30am – Doney Cabin – Beaverhead-Deer Lodge National Forest, Montana
Last night we felt free. The moon was so bright that we hardly had to use our headlamps outside. I built a raging campfire as we watched the moon. The interior of this old cabin, previously used as housing for miners felt creepy at first, but a warm stove and candle light can turn almost anyplace into a home.
We had serious trouble sleeping last night for two reasons. Reason 1: Even though it was 30°F outside, it was 80°F inside, because I put too much wood in the ancient stove. That thing might literally be 85 years old, but it sure worked well.
Reason 2: They’re cute, they’re small, but mice are LOUD. About 2:47am, we still couldn’t sleep in the 90°F inferno cabin when I heard it. SQUEAK! My eyes opened. I was wide-awake. I shone my headlamp around. First I only saw shadows darting near the door and baseboards. Then he showed himself: small, huge ears, and a tiny-nosed mouse.
Corey was also awake. They were cute at first playing and running around on the floor of the other side of the cabin. One became bold and ran up the wall and close to my bed. “Nope!” I exclaimed. I did my best to scare them off and close the holes they were coming though. It didn’t work. Eventually, I had to accept them and let sleep wash over me. They were probably just trying to stay warm.
At one point, I awoke to something scrambling at my feet in my sleeping bag. I kicked and lifted my feet until the mouse landed at my stomach. I grabbed it with my hand. It squirmed. I was so shocked I couldn’t say anything. I just telling myself in my head, say something! Eventually, I got out the word, “Corey!” He asked what was wrong. I said, “There’s a mouse in my sleeping bag! I’m holding it right now…” I realized I was holding nothing. I was just a terrifying, very real dream.
Doney Cabin, we’ve had some laughs, but I’m outta here.
Good Vibes in Portland
DAY 15 – COREY’S ENTRY - APRIL 27 – 9:30AM - AUNT CONNIE’S HOUSE – BAINBRIDGE ISLAND, WASHINGTON
We are now in Washington, our third state. You can see the silhouette face of old George W. himself on most highway signs.
I am currently sitting in my Aunt Connie’s beautiful seaside home, but all I can think of is Portland. I’ve wanted to travel there to check out its creativity, live & workspaces, sense of community, hiking trails for days, and generally nice people.
We stayed at an AirBNB with a wonderful lady named Tessie, which was nice because it gave us a sense of what it would be like to live in the city ourselves.
Brunch! This city certainly loves their brunch. Most restaurants are breakfast or lunch spots and have lines out the door.
I truly enjoyed the art and creativity the city offers. It’s a quiet and respectful city full of inspiration. I decided to shoot street photography style here. I’ve been slowly building the courage to photograph strangers. We happened on one fellow who saw our camera and said, how he loved that we should “share, and create, create and share!” That's just the vibe of Portland.
We visited Portland's Japanese gardens, which had such a feeling of peace. Good vibes in Portland.
It’s interesting though that after being in a city I truly enjoyed, I still missed the settings of the Redwoods and Yosemite.
DAY 15 – EMILY’S ENTRY - APRIL 27 – 2:41PM – AUNT CONNIE’S HOUSE – BAINBRIDGE ISLAND, WASHINGTON
We just drove out of Portland, Oregon. Corey has been dying to road trip to Portland for years. On our way to the city, we stopped in a local Oregon winery called Brooks Winery. Corey's sister is friends with the winery's owner. It was a beautiful winery with beautiful people there.
We spent the entire first full day completely reorganizing the car. Corey took out everything and placed it on the sidewalk. We were staying with a lovely Cardiac nurse named Tessie from AirBNB. It looked like we were hosting a ridiculous yard sale of granola and dirty shoes in someone else’s yard. The next day, we wanted to experience Portland. We learned in Portland, you could get an espresso and craft beer just about anywhere. It seemed that everyone had a big dog, a Subaru, drank espresso, hiked, biked, and was outdoors whenever the sun hit. It reminded me of a Southern town in the fact that nobody was in too much of a hurry but usually had something to do.
My favorite part was when we went to a Saturday Street Market and shot street photography of the locals, musicians, travelers, vagabonds, and dreamers.
We are now staying on Bainbridge Island, Washington across the river from Mt. Rainer and Seattle at Corey’s Aunt Connie’s house. This is the first day in 3 weeks that we’ve taken the afternoon off and it is surely glorious.
Bonus Story: I found out it's illegal to pump your own gas in Oregon. When we pulled into a Chevron on our way into the Beaver State, I began to get out of the car. I looked up to see a bearded man missing a front tooth give me a giant toothless smile. He promptly said, "It's illegal to pump your own gas in the state of Oregon." He must have known I was not a local by the dumbfounded look on my face. I stared at him for a minute. I don't know the laws in this strange land of Oregon U.S.A. He had a Chevron workers suit on and looked nice enough so I asked him, "So what do I do?" He asked for my gas choice and credit card. As I slowly handed over the Visa, I pondered if he was a con man or crazy. Goodness be, he did give back the plastic and washed my windshield. After all is said and done, it was awesome not pumping my own gas, and I want all states to change their gas laws.
Highs & Lows on Harris Beach
Day 10 – Corey’s Entry - April 22 - 8:03am – Harris Beach State Park – Brookings, Oregon
We are now in Oregon, our first state out of California. The coast here is fierce. The wind blows hard with a frosty chill.
We walked down to the beach yesterday evening along a wood chip path spotted with millipedes. We danced and sang as if nobody was around. I probably wouldn’t have stopped even if someone had walked up on us.
I just feel good here and that’s truly a blessing. Every morning as soon as I wake up, I feel slightly panicked. I ask myself, “Wait. Where am I? What are we doing? What the hell is that sound?” After quick brain recalibration, I will get up, crawl out of the tent, grab my camera gear, and with a smile on my face, begin to work.
It’s not the easiest transition from living in a house to a nomadic lifestyle. Everyday or so, I’m in a whole new place. There are new smells, sights, and surroundings. It can be disorienting at times, but if I can embrace the idea and realize Home is where you want it to be, then the entire experience becomes all the more exciting.
I can see now how some people keep traveling without ever settling down. There’s so much to see and experience in this world.
Side note: That night on Harris Beach was truly fun. Emily and I stayed up on a giant rock off shore watching the stars and sang Disney songs. I love Emily so much. She’s just perfect to me.
Day 11 – Emily’s Entry - April 23 – 10:47am – Morgan’s Country Kitchen – Florence, Oregon
I’ve been thinking about highs & lows. This trip has been full of amazing highs where we feel on top of the world or at absolute peace. We have seen such beautiful scenes, been in such humbling places, and have had absolute freedom. On the other hand, we have had our lows too. Our frustrations have included the weather, being dirty, being tired, being lost, no cell service (the last two are usually associated), having to immediately put away anything we take out, and the upper car rack making every kind of mysterious noise that sounds like at any moment the whole thing will just fly off into the Pacific Ocean.
YET with everything that happens, highs and lows, I figure the only things we will recall in the future will be the incredible highs. We’ll remember the strange characters, laughter, stunning views, and surpassing feelings. It’s because of the highs that we journey on.
We’ve done some incredible things so far. The night of April 21, we stayed at Harris Beach State Park in Brookings, Oregon. It was a high and low kind of night. Corey was shooting a time-lapse of the sun setting and other landscapes of the remarkable scenery. Primordial rocks jutted out of the sea. We hiked over small rocks and tide pools to a mini island. I was carrying equipment on my climb and fell on my knees. I got knee bruises as a souvenir. Corey and I had two ciders to drink to keep us warm. The temperature continued to plummet while we shot the warm sun sink over the horizon and the white moon begin to command the sky. We laid on a small clearing on this sea rock as the cold wind blew. I believe the temperature start around 45 degrees F and slowly dropped. We sang Disney songs very loud and very poorly. We knew nobody could hear us over the cold ocean wind even if they tried. I hate the cold, but I wouldn’t trade that memory for the world.
By the way, we saw former President Theodore Roosevelt eating an omelet in a diner off the 101 in Northern California. I would bet my last dollar it was he.
The Avenue of the Giants
Day 8 – Corey’s Entry – April 20 – 6:19am - Humboldt Redwoods National Forest - Avenue of the Giants, California
Yesterday we woke up on the Sonoma Coast. The morning coast was quiet and smothered in fog. I saw ocean waves thumping against rocks. The salty sea air washing over the shore created a sense of peace and mystery. We sat on a driftwood couch staring out into the foggy Pacific Ocean when a group of Pelicans flew by. They moved together like a ribbon waving elegantly.
Last night was just what I needed. First, we had nice, hot showers. It has been four days since a shower. Then, we met our cool neighbors, Heath and Megan from Montana. Get this: Heath actually grew up on Signal Mountain, TN where I’m from. It's a small world in the Avenue of the Giants.
We stayed up late drinking, swapping stories, and just relaxing by a campfire. Emily and I needed that. We had a small tiff earlier about directions and we never get mad at each other. We were just hungry, tired, and grungy.
We drove though a giant Redwood tree yesterday! After paying $5 to enter the small park, we arrived upon a drive thru tree. I wasn’t sure our car would fit, but then I said, “I paid five dollars to drive through a tree, I’m gonna drive though a tree!” We did.
It’s our first full day in the Redwood Forest. Time to shoot.
DAY 8 – COREY’S ENTRY – APRIL 20 – 3:56pM - HUMBOLDT REDWOODS NATIONAL FOREST - AVENUE OF THE GIANTS, California
Here I really felt like a kid again. Early in the morning I went to shoot the sunrise. I held my tripod in my arms like a soldier holds a rifle. And then I grinned and started running. Jumping over fallen trees and hiding from imaginary enemies. Later in the afternoon, after playing in the woods, we hung our hammocks and relaxed under the canopy of redwoods. We laid back, kicked off our shoes and called it home.
Day 8 - Emily’s Entry – April 20 – 3:58pm – Humboldt Redwoods National Forest - Avenue of the Giants, california
Yosemite was absolutely stunning. I am definitely going back there in my life. The park is so well maintained and breathtaking. We had a bear near our campsite the first night we were there, but it wasn’t after anything of ours. Corey spotted two coyotes at different times. I believe he has a spirit animal connection to them and that’s why he’s so great at finding them in the wild.
After Yosemite, we headed to the Sonoma Coast to Wright’s Beach for the night. Sea salt and ocean spray covered the car and tent. We left the coast early to reach the Redwoods. We had a bit of a tiff in the car about how to read directions from a road map because we didn’t have service on our phones to pull up GPS. Neither one of us are very experienced with paper road maps. It’s 2015 for goodness sake!
We drove silently into the Avenue of the Giants The AOTG took our breath away. It’s a narrow road surrounded by enormous Redwood trees in Northern California. The Redwoods seem to go up for miles. Imagine Ewok Forest meets the place where unicorns live. You can hear the tall trees creak when they sway in the wind. It has a magical feeling.
We have never traveled this far north as a couple before. Tomorrow we head northwest for the Oregon coast.
Lastly, I want to talk about water. Living in Los Angeles, we know water has been a hot issue in California. We aren't given water unless we ask at restaurants and we're asked to conserve when we can. I don't think I realized what a serious national issue we had until we drove 9 days north through California. We drove past hundreds of miles of farmland displaying signs with slogans such as "Pray For Rain", "Solve the Water Crisis", & "Food Grows Where Water Flows". According to the National Agricultural Statistics Service, California is America's number 1 agricultural producing state (reference http://www.nass.usda.gov/Statistics_by_State/California/Publications/California_Ag_Statistics/CA_Ag_Overview.pdf). Cali is the number 1 producer in America of many daily fruits, vegetables, nuts, and dairy products. I'm not quite sure what to do, but I know it's an issue. We were personally blown away by what we saw. Pray for rain.
In Our Yosemite Home
Day 4 - Emily’s Entry – April 16 - 8:00pm- Yosemite National Park, California
We are currently sitting in the same spot Ansel Adams shot his famous picture of Yosemite Valley and the Half Dome, which helped spark Americans’ interest in visiting the west. Famous woodsman and adventurer John Muir called Yosemite “… by far the grandest of all the special temples of Nature I was ever permitted to enter.”
Driving through Yosemite for the first time defines the word ‘magnificent.’ Enormous, prehistoric cliffs emerge from the earth watching over the meadows, Redwoods, and Sequoias in the valley. The view stirs a feeling humility and awe.
I don’t think I realized how incredible this trip would be until just now overlooking these amazing sites. I am so proud of my nation, my home, my America.
Day 4 – Corey’s Entry – April 16 – 8:01pm – Yosemite National Park, California
This is it. We’re finally doing it. An epic road trip 100 days around America photographing, writing, and simply enjoying life. I have never done anything on this grand of a scale before.
I’m sitting at Tunnel View in Yosemite feeling tiny compared to the giant mountain stones around me. El Capitan, Yosemite Falls, and Half Dome are so beautiful.
Yesterday we were at Limekiln State Park. The forest and beach combination is amazing. We watched sunset over the beach rocks and saw a blue heron swoop down very close to us. The Great Blue Heron reminded Emily of her home in Florida. Something from our childhood gives us that home feeling. I find the forest setting so pleasing as a home, probably because I grew up on a mountain with the woods as my backyard. We could live here.
Back-story: My lovely wife Emily and I planned this trip. Its purpose is to see America, photograph stock images that we can sell, and maybe scout out a new home for the future. I think of the concept Home as the focus of my journey. I wonder what describes home. Is ‘Home’ shelter, being surrounded by family, or maybe it’s the open road.
I love the idea that home is where you want to be. Right now, home is where I’m alive and where my love is. As we journey, I know the idea might change or stay the same. I’m not sure yet, but I know that I am so happy.
Day 6 – Corey’s Entry – April 18 – 8:17am - Yosemite National Park, California
What an incredible place filled with beauty. The mountain Yosemite stones tower around you and there's a feeling of security as if they are protecting you. In our Yosemite home, the sky is our ceiling, the valley our floor, and El Capitan and Cathedral Rocks our walls.
I am in a totally different state of mind than I was five days ago in Hollywood. Our first stop, Jalama Beach was a nightmare. Emily picked a great location, but things didn’t go as planned.
First, we arrived late at 9:45pm, then we setup the tent in the dark and gale force winds came. At 3:00 in the morning, I awoke to the top front of our tent flapping against my face. I was angry and a bit frightened since I read an article about a couple’s tent flying away with them inside during a windstorm.
The next morning we had sand EVERYWHERE: in boots, sleeping bags, eyes, ears, you name it, it had sand. What was truly dispiriting was knowing that we were not prepared for this trip. We had planned and researched for 6 months, but no amount of time would really be enough to prepare us for the unexpected. In prep, I played out so many scenarios, but you only do what you can.
The next day, we packed up our Subaru, still not organized and headed north. No photography. I was upset we were behind schedule and still in a chaotic state of mind.
In Yosemite, I feel like Emily and I are returning to who we are. We lost that in Hollywood in some ways.
Our first day in Yosemite (we arrived late after purchasing a new tent), I felt like I had failed when we missed the sunset, but instead of throwing a fit or stewing in frustration, I just shrugged it off. I do my best and that’s all anyone can ask of themself. The next day, my alarm didn’t go off for sunrise. Again, I sat there trying to figure out why these things keep happening to me, and then I stopped myself and realized I can't control everything. I pressed on.
I’ve found that out here, not having as many options makes life easier. You learn to cope and problem solve in a whole new and healthier way.
Yesterday was an incredible day. We marveled at and photographed Yosemite Valley. I especially loved that I photographed the same landscapes as Ansel Adams. Then we saw the spot where John Muir sat around a campfire with Teddy Roosevelt telling him to protect the majestic Yosemite.
This place is my heaven. I could live here. Yosemite, we will certainly return. #HalfDomeBeer