American Grassland Afternoons
Day 79 – Corey’s Entry – June 30 – 8:45am– Black Kettle National Grassland, Oklahoma
I feel good. I really thought by this point I’d be aching for the comforts of my apartment, but I’m happy to be camping again. I’m much more relaxed now. Things that bothered and angered me a few months ago, don’t get to me anymore.
We met a nice guy last night named Desmal at our campsite. He’s a photo professor and instillation artist in Georgia. He creates temporary art galleries in towns that have none. Something he mentioned connected with me. He said, “It’s not about who you are when you start the trip, but who you are when you end the trail.” I love this, because I feel like I started this journey a ball of over-thinking stress. I know I’ll end this trail in a positive state of mind. We sat on our own private, albeit-forgotten dock to watch the sunsets.
Black Kettle National Grassland is the buggiest place we have stayed. The ground moves with ants, wasps, spiders, grasshoppers, beetles, and cicadas. They all want to be in our tent or on us. We can’t put anything down without a spider weaving a web on it. We brush ants off the tent and within seconds they return with new soldiers. They were relentless, but entertaining.
This is our first time camping in such heat on this trip. I’d rather bundle up in cold, winter weather. In the heat, you can only take off so many layers of clothes and lay in the shade until the sun goes down. We almost jumped in the murky lake, but without a shower, we knew the smell would have overtaken us in the night.
We bought a fan that hangs in the tent for the heat. As we lay on top of our sleeping bags, we noticed how the tent setup was reminiscent of our old apartment on Lanewood Avenue in Hollywood. It’s as if no matter where we live, we set up our Home the same way. We have a ceiling fan, I sleep closer to the main door, our closet is at our feet, and our phones on the bedside tables (in the mesh pockets next to our pillows). It doesn’t matter where we lay our head, it only matters that we do it together.
Day 79 – Emily’s Entry – June 30 – 1:15pm - Smokin’ Joe’s Grill – Pampa, Texas
We just stayed two nights in the Black Kettle National Grasslands in Oklahoma. The days were hot, but once the sun began to set around 8:45pm, the nightly show began. Sunset was stunning.
Every color appeared in the sky.
Last night there was a lightning storm in the far-away clouds. I played my ukulele on the decaying dock behind our site as the moon shone full and the cicadas hummed.
We saw cicadas walking on the ground. Their empty shells were strewn on anything higher than a foot off the ground.
The recent Oklahoma flooding and storms are ever apparent. We tried walking on 4 trails, but bridge damage, tall grass, and hidden trails deterred us. Corey had about 7 ticks crawling on him and his clothes. We met photographer Desmal Purcell at our campsite who gave us a lucky crystal he mined himself in Arkansas, fulfilling the time-old saying, “It’s good luck to receive an Arkansas crystal from a Georgia man in Oklahoma.”
We’ve been in Texas now for about an hour. Everything IS bigger in Texas. My sandwich is HUGE, the hats are HUGE, the trucks are HUGE, etc. I’m excited to see what comes next.
Day 79 – Emily’s Entry – June 30 – 3:54pm - Side of the Road, Texas
I just discovered a tick on my scalp. We’re pulled over, and Corey is inspecting my head.
He just lit a match then blew it out to burn the sucker so he lets go.
He pulled him off, and the tick took a piece of me with him.
Gross. This sucker's green and black.
I just left a piece of my scalp on the side of Route 87 in Texas.
Day 80 – Corey's Entry – July 1 – 7:45am - Garden of the Gods - Bunk House 7 - Colorado Springs, Colorado
Traveling through the grasslands of Texas and Oklahoma has been interesting. There were more bugs than I’ve ever seen camping before. Coyotes howl in big packs every night circling the campsite. I always thought they were loners and scavengers. The prairies harbor abandoned Homes taken over by nature, and rusty trucks sit forgotten in deep grass riddled with bullets.
Last night, we arrived at Thompson Grove in the Rita Blanca National Grassland. Flies, cows, and coyotes were the only things around for miles.
Late afternoon, a man pulled up in his White Yukon with a mustache and a ponytail. It was Sketchy McJoJoe personified! Back-story: Sketchy McJoJoe is a character Emily and I made up on this trip. He’s always at your party, but nobody invited him. He left his job as a part-time adult video store clerk to start up an underground alligator-fighting ring. He sells beer to children and always smells like Marlboro Lights and musty van. We generally try to stay away from this character, but here he was personified at Rita Blanca free campsite outside of Nowhere, Texas with Kansas license plates. He seemed harmless, but then again he didn’t wave back at us so we through up a mental Red Flag. He sat there eating his salad watching the cows. We wondered if he was thinking about his wonderful dead family or plotting our murder. We really try not to judge, but he didn’t pitch a tent and for hours it looked like he was either cleaning cups or polishing a gun in his white Yukon. Hot and swarmed by bugs, we left Sketchy McJoJoe alone and escaped to our tent. He turned out to be fine. He was probably just thinking about the family thing.
On our way to Colorado Springs, we stopped to say hello to a nice, little horse family on the side of the road. As I was shooting, I jokingly told them to line up for a family portrait. To my surprise, they turned around, got together, and posed Dad, Mom, and baby. If only I could get my own family to do that, Christmas cards would be easier.
Witches, Bourbon, & Swamps
Day 74 – Emily’s Entry - June 25 – 6:05pm – Bourbon Orleans Hotel - New Orleans, Louisiana
It’s hard to describe New Orleans. Music plays, people eat, and the feeling of colorful stories haunts the streets.
I took Corey to Café du Monde today. You could ski on the amount of powdered sugar Café du Monde douses on their world-famous beignets. I love this city.
Day 75 - Corey’s Entry - June 26 – 3:04pm – Car Driving in Louisiana
This city is a party. We stayed in the French Quarter to get the full experience. Bourbon Street is a party every night of the week. There was live music on the street and in every other venue. People were doing all kinds of crazy things for a few bucks. There was one man who stood balanced on a ladder like a magic construction worker. We saw a “teddy bear” in the middle of the street waving at passersby with the face of man. Upon closer inspection we saw a dirty tattooed man on his knees moving the bear costume with his hands. There were bros on balconies tossing beads below, but we didn’t see anyone flashing, as I know that’s what you do to win a 10¢ necklace and some self-esteem.
We stayed at the historic Bourbon Orleans Hotel. In 1817, it opened as the grand Orleans Ballroom. Years passed by and it became a convent acquired by the Sisters of the Holy Family for orphans to live in and go to school. During that time, the Civil War and yellow fever caused the convent to open their doors to the ill and wounded. There are stories of ghost orphans who still play in the hallways and tug on coat jackets of guests, giggling as they run away. Another story tells of a suicidal nun regretful of her actions who watches over sleeping guests. There is also the Civil War soldier who still tries to find the front lines of battle; guests can hear him dragging his sword across the floor. The most eerie story is about twin brothers who fought to the death on the grand staircase over a beautiful debutant; the blood-stained carpeted floor has to be replaced often, because the ancient blood still bleeds through.
I love the sweet and smooth dialect you hear from the locals in New Orleans. Last night we were at The Grape Vine restaurant and when our waitress Brianna would check on us she would say things like, “Hello, my babies,” “How are you, honey?” and “Sure thing, my baby.” The way she said it wasn’t creepy or inviting, it was comforting, because she said it so naturally. Emily and I sat for about half an hour after our meal wondering where she was. So Emily went to find her, and I quietly sat sipping on wine when Brianna returned. She said she was sorry, but got caught up in her book. I told her no worries and asked what she was reading. She laid down a book titled The Holy Book of Women’s Mysteries. It had a picture of a woman wearing a wolf pelt. I opened it to a bookmarked page that heavily underlined, “A witch bows to no man.” My God, our waitress is a witch! I kept reading. It had spells for protecting your home, spells for making money, hexes, and curses with ingredients and instructions, like a cook book. In this feminist witch book I saw one spell for protecting your home from men and the first step read, “ Start by cleaning your entire home. You may even want to do the dishes.” Nothing says I’m a powerful feminist witch more than cleaning and washing dishes before a man comes home. I chuckled to myself about that, but that night I was feeling very ill. I hope I wasn’t cursed for laughing…
Today we did a swamp tour. At one point we were surrounded by at least 10 gators. I never knew they liked marshmallows, but when the captain tossed them out, like a supper bell they came.
There were some big boys 14ft long and 900lbs.
Our guide took us into the deeper part of the swamp. We passed by homes that were destroyed during Katrina, and some that somehow survived. The water where we were had risen 16ft high, swallowing some homes and taking some miles down the river. Mother Nature can be incredible and terrible all at the same time.
Deep in the swamp, we suddenly came upon a family of wild hogs. They call them “big squirrels” in the swamp.
These guys knew the deal. They came right up to the boat and one huge hog just about jumped into the boat. They squealed and ran around in the muddy water having a good time.
New Orleans had it all: Great food, delicious drinks, and good times. Thanks for the adventures, N’awlins, We’re going camping.
Beyond the Road
Note: Some of these pictures of the GoPro and us we give credit to Charlie Evans!
Day 61 - Emily’s Entry - June 12 – 3:42pm – The Somerset at Grace Bay, Turks & Caicos
It’s funny how Home takes on meaning. Home becomes the place you belong when the world is tough. The most comforting thought at the end of a long, weary day is, “Let’s go Home.”
It’s strange on this journey to have so many places we call Home, because when we pack up and prepare to leave, suddenly this Holy place almost feels foreign. It feels that way for us when the tent is rolled up and the car is packed. You may know every light switch, corner, and quirk of a place, but on move out day when your stuff is gone and the place is quiet, this place most familiar to you may as well be a deserted land.
It’s not the walls, location, and things that make Home. For me, Home can be a tent, camp stove, and anywhere. It’s the noises, the feeling of belonging, the people, and what you make of it that gives anything meaning.
Day 64 - Corey’s Entry – June 16 – 8:05pm – Jacksonville, Florida
Critser family vacations are always interesting. There were eleven of us including a sweet baby girl. We stayed on Grace Bay where the water is ever clear and crystal blue. We were on a boat in water 60 feet deep and could still see the coral reef below. It was incredible.
Emily and I played with the idea of moving down to the Caribbean for a while and opening a photo hut on the beach. How great would that be?! Island life is relaxed and easy going. When you’re thirsty, just knock down a coconut and have a glass of coconut rum. Hungry? Dive in the ocean, grab a conch, and make cerviche.
During this trip, we spent time with our nieces and nephew. I watched Sylvester (12) catch a barracuda, taught Ebba (7) how to ride a skim board, and glimpsed into the future watching Emily hold baby Silvia (1), and I wasn’t scared.
A bit of sad news: I shaved the beard. I really enjoyed having that beard. I think more people disliked it, but that’s not why I shaved it. Our trip is taking us to some very warm places soon. It was nice to have my beard in the cooler climates, but it will feel much better without it in the hot weather.
I laid on the beach and finally tried to read my book that I’ve carried this entire trip, and I realized I really have a hard time relaxing and doing nothing. I like to always keep busy by doing something constructive. Eventually, I put my mind at ease and took stock of life.
Turks and Caicos was just what we needed. We had time to stop working on the company, the trip, and thinking where we’re going to live. After fifty straight days of shooting and being on the road, it’s nice to have a break.
Back on Signal Mountain, we packed up the car. Like turning on a switch, I was back in traveling mode. We hugged and kissed my parents goodbye and watched my mother wave from the side porch (her perch) as my black lab Boudreaux (who lives at my parents’ house / it’s a long story) barked and chased our car down the driveway. My mom always watches us leave. Soon we would be in Jacksonville, FL then fly to Henderson, KY for more family and good times!
“Together with a culture of work, there must be a culture of leisure as gratification. To put it another way: people who work must take the time to relax, to be with their families, to enjoy themselves, read, listen to music, play a sport.”
Origin Stories
Day 53 - Emily’s Entry – June 4 – 5:46pm – Signal, Mountain, Tennessee
Home is a beautiful place. Our first night here at Corey’s parents’ Home, I slept the entire night without waking once. This was the first place on this trip we’ve actually been to before and know. The dogs greeted us with loyal whimpers. We were grungy and exhausted.
On our way to Chattanooga, while driving 55mph, a rock flew into the road in front of us. We were worried a tire was flat when we flew over the football-size rock. My first though was “I’m so glad we put the storage system together with Velcro so that we can get to the flat tire.” Thankfully, we only had a side bumper jimmy loose. The work crew responsible for the flying rock came over and a good, old boy zip-tied it back on. Zip ties make perfect Southern fixes.
Day 54 - Corey’s Entry – June 5 – 4:45pm - Signal Mountain, Tennessee
There’s that old saying, “Home, Sweet Home.” I still call my parents’ house where I grew up Home, like many people do. It’s where I learned about the world and began to figure out who I was. Signal Mountain, Tennessee will always be a Home to me. I know it very well, and that’s a comfortable feeling. My mother has made changes to the house, but the feeling is the same. We all still sit out on the porch and listen to thunderstorms or have long, life-lesson porch talks with my father.
We were weary when we arrived into Chattanooga on Day 52. After playing with dogs and piddling around we unpacked the entire car. We unloaded our winter gear, preparing for the upcoming heat waves. The cooler was left behind since it will be close to impossible to keep things cold for more than half a day in our hot car. We’ve also stocked up on water and sunscreen.
Chattanooga (the city at the foot of Signal Mountain) is full of adventures. It’s outdoorsy, innovative, and beautiful. There’s always something going on downtown or by the river. The history is rich and full of inspiring artists. This was kind of like our pit stop. I wish I had photographed more while I was there, but we were exhausted and enjoying time with family. I will be back. Thank you Mountain Mom and Dad for your generosity.
Day 65 - Emily’s Entry - June 16 – 12:19am – My Old Bedroom – Jacksonville Beach, Florida
6 months is too long to be away from my childhood Home where my parents, sister, grandfather, and dogs are. Driving past my old high school on the road I used to travel Home, past the roads I took to visit from college and the summer camp I used to work at, I thought of all the times speeding, blasting music, hand out the window, with so many old friends and crushes. It was all a far-away familiar.
Aging is so strange. It’s like we’re always trying to rush things: graduate early, settle down, get pets, have a family. We are also trying to slow everything down: birthdays, lazy days, deadlines, the snooze button! Don’t you believe everything will happen all in due time? Why must we feel the need to slow and speed things to our convenience?
I try to take stock in two mottos:
- I will be where I’m supposed to be, when I’m supposed to be there.
- Does God not provide for the birds in the sky? Are you not more important than a bird?
Headed Down South
Day 42 - Corey’s Entry – May 24 – 3:42pm – Café de los Muertos - Raleigh, North Carolina
How far along are we on this journey? “70%,” my Aunt Viki said to us, while we were over for brunch in Madison, Wisconsin. “You have 70% of your trip to go.” I’m not sure if that excited or scared me. It got really rough for us, but I miss being outdoors and camping. When times get really tough like that, I like to say, “Ya know, this is a story”. From Madison, WI to Charleston, WV we have lived cozy with family and explored a different wilderness. It’s so inspiring being outdoors where gorgeous mountain landscapes, dense forest, and rivers are your background with endless places to explore. Even though an urban environment can’t offer us the same things as nature, it’s always amazing what us humans have done.
I really like staying at AirBNB’s over hotels now. First off, the money goes directly to local people, and you get the feeling of being at Home. It’s like staying with your good friend while in town. Emily and I played Gin Rummy on the back porch of an AirBNB as the sun set last night. We drank local beer and honey whisky as the fireflies sparked on and off all over the backyard. Oliver, the large dog I nicknamed Gigantor, barked for a while guarding his yard. It felt like Home to me.
Day 43 - Emily’s Entry – May 25 – 4:15pm – Pullen Park - Raleigh, North Carolina
I want to live life more simply. It’s so easy to get caught up in the spider web of details that sometimes feel so earth-shatteringly important. I want to walk lightly, deal with things as they come with ease, and look ahead with wisdom and hope. I’ve learned so much about the person I want to be. It’s been such a blessing to live freely and among nature. We’ve also met such interesting and wonderful people.
We’re staying with a lovely woman named Sara, her Persian cat Monster, and a gargantuan dog named Oliver. Raleigh seems like a nice place to raise a family. We’re at a lovely, old park with a small train and 1910’s merry-go-round.
My parents lived in Raleigh when my sister India was a baby until she was 2 and my mother was expecting me. I like to imagine my mother holding toddler India on the old merry-go-round as they rode a historic lion or giraffe while my father waved at the two of them and took pictures.
Day 45 - Corey’s Entry - May 27 - 12:43pm – Central Coffee Company – Charlotte, North Carolina
I looked at our route map and I couldn’t believe we’ve traveled this far. D.C. was the furthest point east, and now we’ve headed south. We’re done with the coldest part of this journey, so we dumped our winter coats and gear at my sister’s place in Louisville. The car is so much lighter with more room and less stuffy. We know we have a new set of challenges ahead. We have braved the cold and managed the rain. Now we will take on the heat.
Currently we are visiting some Southern cities. This string of cities is part of our “not so secret agenda” to maybe move down South in a few years. We’re substituting campgrounds for AirBNB’s the next few days and exploring what a few North Carolina towns have to offer.
Day 46 - Emily’s Entry – May 28 – 8:15am - Charlotte, North Carolina
I always say, I want my pastor to be liberal and my banker to be conservative. Well, in Charlotte, NC, the city of banks, a preppy South is very apparent. Every guy we saw downtown had a blue, white, or blue and white stripe shirt on. Seersucker shirts surely rule this city.
Day 49 - Corey’s Entry – May 31 – 8:35pm - Asheville, North Carolina
We arrived in Asheville and immediately noticed the beauty of the Blue Ridge Mountains. They surround the small city and seem to inspire the artisans. Asheville has been renovating old factories and warehouses into live/work spaces for artist and studios. These studios are great because you can see artists working and purchase pieces right out of their studio. They reminded me of the studio Emily and I want to own one day. The arts district is open, friendly, and all about local support.
We stayed at an AirBNB here too, and we only strengthened our belief that AirBNB is better than a hotel. Our wonderful hosts Marc and Fay were excellent caretakers that put chocolates (handmade by pastry chef/chocolatier Marc) on our beds and were happy to chitchat in the evenings. They even prepared breakfast with fresh pastries every morning.
Welcoming and fun was the vibe I got in Asheville. The area has hundreds of miles of trails to hike and plenty of waterfalls to explore, which I love.
Day 49 - Emily’s Entry - May 31 – 8:49pm – Asheville, North Carolina
Asheville was cool. Corey and I wandered around downtown. Train hopping travelers roamed with their dogs, local artists and craftsmen sold their goods at street markets, and a caped man in spandex ran past us jumping once to clap his feet together and exclaim, “I’m off!”
One night, we ate dinner at a local French bistro and sat at the bar. We talked to the barista and a British man who likes to travel the world. We talked of places, breaking the law, and making up silly characters when traveling.
Apparently, there are huge rock crystals in the mountains under the city of Asheville. These crystals supposedly create positive energy in the town. I’m back and forth about it all, but I do know this city seems to have more artists and creativity per square block than most places do within 100 square miles.
The difference between ‘wonder’ and ‘wander’ is only one, small line.
Day 51 – Emily’s Entry – 10:10am – Pop & Nana’s Kitchen and The Scoop – Robbinsville, North Carolina – Nantahala National Forest
So long on this trip, Corey and I have said, “And we’re not even halfway done!” Well, we’re at the peak of this trip, and what a 50 days it has been. I feel like going through tough times makes it easier to deal with everything.
We are exhausted, needless to say. We just camped once quick night and it was great to be outside. The rain sometimes gets Corey down though. I like falling asleep to the sounds of soft rain on the tent and distant thunder.
I feel so blessed to have come this far and be on this journey. Alas, there is a time for everything, and a season for every activity under the heavens. Now is a time for rest. We will send time with our families in the next three weeks, because family is important.
The Woods are Lovely, Dark and Deep
“The woods are lovely, dark and deep,
But I have promises to keep,
And miles to go before I sleep,
And miles to go before I sleep.”
Day 38 – Emily's Entry - May 20 – 7:35pm – Mountain Peak - Monongahela National Forest, West Virginia
Corey and I are currently on a grassy clearing near the tallest peak in West Virginia. We can see mountains and hills for miles all around us. The sun won’t set for another hour or so.
We hiked around Spruce Knob Lake earlier. Birds chirped, people fished on the peaceful lake, and honeysuckles grew along the path. The smell of honeysuckles reminds me of my childhood in Florida running barefoot through the bushes in my neighborhood.
I do miss the south. Everything feels so alive and spirited. Water flows freely and the lakes are full. Instead of begging plants to grow, they spring forth in every bit of sunshine creating their own Overgrown Kingdom.
Beautiful days like this make every hardship on this trip worth it.
A Tale of Several Cities
Day 30 – Emily’s Entry - May 12 – 9:08am – Sarah Morgan’s Home - Madison, Wisconsin
Madison has been a place of much needed rest. We are staying with Corey’s cousin, Sarah Morgan, and her family. This has been the first time in a long two weeks we have seen anyone we know since visiting Corey’s cousin Viki and her husband Ron in Bainbridge Island, Washington. A friendly face and home-cooked meal was very welcome on our long journey.
Day 30 - Corey’s Entry – May 12 – 8:45pm – Labriola Café – Chicago, Illinois
Chicago, what can I say? It’s full of good food, cold weather, and very busy people.
As for Madison, Wisconsin the last few days, I’ve had the opportunity to visit many family members. My cousin Sarah and her husband Miles showed us Madison, which is a very lively town with a lot to offer. We shared a pitcher of beer at the University of Wisconsin Union, where a lot of students and locals kick back near the river. My cousin Virginia helped teach us an old, German card game called Euchre, a trick-taking game with a trump. It's a fun and very confusing. Last night, my Aunt Viki and Uncle Mike joined us for dinner. We all stayed up, drank wine, and shared stories. Those are my favorite kind of nights.
Day 33 - Emily’s Entry - May 15 – 2:23pm - Somewhere off the road in Indiana
We had the best time in Chicago. It’s a solid city, clean and prompt. Corey and I strolled along Michigan Avenue people-watching and enjoying the energy of the city. We had drinks after sunset at the John Hancock Tower Signature Room on the 96th floor where we could see the city lights for miles. It felt like a powerful position on top of the world. Chicago, we’ll be back.
Day 33 - Corey’s Entry - May 15 - 3:15pm – In Car driving through Indiana
I have always wanted to stand in the Chicago Institute of Art and stare at the George Seurat painting “A Sunday Afternoon on the Island of La Grande Jatte” as they do in the movie “Ferris Bueller’s Day Off”. I finally went, and although I had no epiphanies, it was surreal seeing the original, famed painting. We were busy all day yesterday seeing the Art Institute of Chicago Museum, The Field Museum, the parks, and the Bean. The clean city also has beautiful flowerbeds spread throughout the city sidewalks that uplift the soul.
Day 37 – Emily’s Entry – May 19 – 12:20pm – Logan Critser’s Home – Louisville, Kentucky
It’s hard to believe we’re on Week 6, and we’ve traveled so far. Corey and I are excited about every experience, but we are tired in our bones from keeping up with our work and ourselves. Sometimes, I sit and think of all the incredible places we’ve been and how crazy this trip is.
Our 2-night stay with Corey’s sister Logan in Louisville turned into 4 nights, because huge storms were going to cover our scheduled campsite. It felt so safe and homey staying with Logan. Even the act of washing dishes in an actual sink was comforting.
While in Kentucky, we saw an aunt, an uncle, 3 cousins, and 3 2nd cousins from both Corey and I ‘s families. I guess the old saying is true: all my kin lives in Kentucky!
Meeting up with my cousin Stephanie and her family in Versailles, KY (pronounced Ver-Sails) was such a blessing. I haven’t seen her in about 7 years. We watched Stephanie’s daughter rides horses at a beautiful Kentucky ranch.
Driving through the rolling green hills, endless two-way roads, past rich, blue skies, ancient fences, and thoroughbred horses reminds me of my childhood visiting my grandparents and uncles near Lexington. Kentucky was also one of the first places I was inspired to shoot well-composed photos. Kentucky will always hold a dear, dear place in my heart.
Day 37 - Corey’s Entry – May 19 – 12:35pm – Logan Critser’s Home – Louisville, Kentucky
When we arrived in Louisville, KY, we felt the beautiful, southern atmosphere. My sister Logan greeted us with open arms and good food. She is an professional chef after all. I really enjoyed the town of Louisville. We toured the Buffalo Trace Bourbon Distillery and learned a good deal of history about the 1920’s prohibition. Louisville has a great vibe going and the locals are so proud to live here. How can you not love that bluegrass?
Day 41 – Emily’s Entry - May 23 – 9:23am - Glover Park Cemetery – Washington D.C.
I’m with my best friend Kakky Dye, who I haven’t seen since our wedding in October 2013, where she was one of my bridesmaids. She’s a grad student at American University studying photojournalism.
As we walked past views of The White House, monuments, and memorials, we chatted and joked like college girlfriends do, with great volume and enthusiasm. Though as we walked among the Korean War memorial, we all drew silent. Statues of men moving forward through the brush with wide eyes and cautious stances gazed past us. It felt uneasy and reminded me of all the men who have suffered during all wartime for this great country.
Kakky said the word to describe D.C. was ‘busy.’ I also thought of the word ‘powerful.’ So many people here look like they hold or desire power and prestige.
On another note, here's a story: an elderly, wrinkled woman crouched with long, black clothes tried to clothesline me while we were walking opposite ways on the street last night. ‘Clotheslining’ refers to the act of holding your arm out to smack someone walking by, as if running into a hanging clothesline. When I saw the sullen matriarch’s oncoming assault, my panther-like reflexes helped me elude my assailant. Kakky and I were perplexed by this little woman’s motives. Only God will know.
Washington D.C. Busy, humbling, and powerful, but watch out for the aggressive retirees.
Truly Minnesota Nice
Day 28 – Emily’s Entry - May 10 – 9:05am – Lake Shetek State Park, Minnesota
My hat’s off to Minnesota. I didn’t know what to expect, but I have been pleasantly surprised. The beautiful landscapes of lush farmland and serene lakes create images of a peaceful America.
Soft grass and yellow wildflowers cover our campground. We overlook peaceful Lake Shetek where mink, fishermen, and pelicans fish. We saw a mink last night swimming with its lanky, silky body along the shore.
The people are truly Minnesota Nice. We almost missed shooting the sunset because so many people stopped to chat with us. We asked one Minnesota couple we were talking to for a while if they expected people with California license plates to be so nice. The man replied sheepishly, “No. Not really.“ I’m glad we could change his mind. We all may be from different states and hometowns, but we all call America Home.
Day 28 - Corey’s Entry - May 10 - 11:25pm - Madison, Wisconsin
Traveling through the Midwest has been quite interesting. With a clean car and clothes smelling of fresh laundry, we drove out of South Dakota and into Minnesota. The difference between those two states starts exactly at their border. I was happy to be back on the road, dry, and headed to a campground. Lake Shetek is a beautiful place. When we arrived, the sun was out, but we heard reports of rain the next morning. So we rigged up our Eno rain fly to act as a roof. It covered from our bedroom/tent to the kitchen/back of the car allowing us to make breakfast and pack up without getting completely soaked.
We unpacked and went for a hike before the sun set and rains came. Loon Island sits offshore from our campground with a man-made pathway leading to it. The pathway is made of stones and dirt. The lake waves slap the sides of the pathway and anglers can be found along the sides. The campground even had huts designed for cleaning your fish. The tunnel entrance to Loon Island is nature’s creation. Tall lush trees canopy over you and leaves and branches reach for the sunlight creating the tunnel entrance. As we circled the island, we saw plenty of wildlife including minks, wild birds, and a heard of deer.
Standing around the campfire that evening we met several nice people who just wanted to chat. Emily had mentioned to me about something called “Minnesota Nice”. I definitely felt it after those conversations. There’s a simple, welcoming vibe to Minnesota. We watched the sunset on the lake and felt blessed to have a full sunny day.
CRACK! THOOOOMMMBB!! Our alarm clock this morning was boisterous thunder. Thankfully we had our Eno roof and we stayed pretty dry as we packed up. As the rain continued, we checked the weather and saw a storm in our future in Forestville, Minnesota. Upon arrival, there was a note at the campground check-in that we skimmed over, “… rain… cold night… hail up to 1 inch in diameter… 60mph winds…” Well, we didn’t want to mess with hail. Emily said, “It’s not like we’re going to drive to Madison tonight... Right?” I said, “Well, let’s entertain this thought.” And now we’re in Madison.
Then the Rains Came
Day 24 – Emily’s Entry - May 6 – 7:05am - Thunder Basin National Grassland, Wyoming
Rain in the best of times, rain in the worst of times. These past 3 days we have been off road. We stayed the night in the Thunder Basin National Grassland. Yesterday, we drove down a road we thought led somewhere until the road abruptly ended on a plateau overlooking canyons. Honestly, we’re very wet, cold, tired, and grungy. I’d rather not talk about it.
Day 26 – Corey’s Entry – May 8 – 8:20am – Sioux Falls, South Dakota
“If you laugh, you think, and you cry, that’s a full day. That’s a heck of a day. You do that seven days a week, you’re going to have something special.”
For those of you looking over our route map, you won’t find Sioux Falls, South Dakota on the route. I’ll explain:
Currently, my hands are sore, dry, and cracking at the fingertips. My clothes and shoes are mud-caked. I am tired and feeling beaten. A major storm blew through the Midwest and has given us a beating.
On our way to the Thunder Basin National Grassland in Wyoming we got lost and couldn’t find a sign. We drove past mining gear, railroads, and signs that read “Warning: Blast Zone”. It didn’t feel we were in a National Park. After some rough exchanges with digital maps, we used our printed maps and finally found a small, red dirt road with a little sign. By this time, the landscape was getting dark and we could see the clouds weighing down. At one point, eight National Forest Service trucks blocked the ancient, rocky road. After some dicey country boy maneuvers, we got around them and parked atop a flat area surrounded by large rocks jutting out of the ground and short cactuses. The road simply ended. Emily made the choice to call that spot Home for the night.
My mind was split at that point. Emily got a kick out this watching me pace back and forth. The methodic part of me was saying, “Stop. We have to get to the right spot somehow. This isn’t right.” The wild part of me was screaming, “Be wild! Be free! Be adventurous!” I must have walked several circles around the car, like a dog making a bed, before I finally settled on making camp in an unexpected, wild place.
The wind, my God, the wind was howling and blowing hard with light, monotonous rain. We decided to sleep in the car because if lightning struck us, we thought we’d be safer than the tent. It was funny watching Emily fumble into her giant sleeping bag fighting with the steering wheel. All night we tossed and turned trying to get comfortable. It turned into a night full of mini naps. The following morning, the car windows dripped with moisture. I couldn’t photograph due to the fog and rain. Not being able to shoot for a few days really started to get to me.
May 6, we drove into South Dakota and were greeted by a giant Midwest storm. We set up camp at Sage Creek Campground outside the Badlands. As the storm picked up, we scrambled to the wet car to make a cold dinner. During our modest dinner, we watched a buffalo we named Buff eat grass as we shared sips out of a honey whiskey bottle. When I had to use the restroom, I had two options: I could run through the storm to the restroom 30 feet away, or head to the field where Buff was glaring his cross-eyed stare at me. I chose the restroom. Buff was pleased I didn’t approach him.
After a phone call to our weather lady (thanks, Mom), we realized the storm wasn’t giving up. We raced to the tent. Our dry, warm sleeping bags felt safe as strong gusts hit the tent. We held each other and braved the stormy night.
In the foggy morning, our drying rags were wet and everything is touched by mud. On our way out, feeling defeated, we saw a Toyota with wheels spinning in a muddy field just off the road. Without hesitation, we pulled over. A cool guy named Hector stepped out into the mud. I’m sure they were hoping for a country boy in a big pick up truck, but here we were two photographers in a packed Subaru with nobody else around. He and his girl Sydney had their tires four inches deep in mud all around. I saw a rotting, wooden cow pen, and we pulled a couple boards to put under the front wheels. This helped a bit, but still stuck, Emily thinks to use the car carpets under the tires. We also placed some grass from the field under the tires and pushed from the back as Sydney drove forward. Mud covered me from head to toe as we pushed the car to solid ground. Whoo! We needed a win, and it felt good.
Now we’re in a hotel getting our heads on straight. We received some looks hauling trash bags full of muddy clothes and wet gear into the hotel. I know we’ve deviated from our route, but we’ll be back to it tomorrow, with a new hard top carrier (our soft top carrier busted, leaked, and soaked everything up top).
Though it was rough and miserable weather, we kept each other’s spirits up. When I was down, Emily would take lead and lift me up and vice versa. We just finished listening to Where the Red Fern Grows and I can’t help but compare the dogs Old Dan and Little Ann with us. Always together, never apart, treat each other’s wounds, and figure out every challenge together. We’re determined and can’t wait to get back on the road.
Simplicity: The Most Beautiful Luxury
DAY 23 – EMILY’S ENTRY – MAY 5 – 8:50AM – MUDDY GUARD CABIN – BIGHORN NATIONAL FOREST, WYOMING
Last night we stayed in the Muddy Guard Cabin. Before the trip began, I had a small thumbnail image of this cabin. The image was small, but I could see that it was a solitary cabin in the middle of a field surrounded by wildflowers with nothing around for miles. This cabin was my goal. When things got rough, it was great to have a visual goal of something to look forward to. I always imagined this cabin, and it did not disappoint.
After we settled in, we took a hike and saw a herd of graceful deer prance together. At night, we danced to the sounds of an old TV/Radio. Sometimes simplicity is the most beautiful luxury.
Wyoming is so much more than I thought it was. Since Yellowstone, we’ve driven though lush forest, snowy peaks, grassy plains with elk, antelope and buffalo roaming, echoing canyons, and the most incredibly colored rock formations originally inhabited by the native Shoshone people. There are canyons of pure red and rock formations that include every hue of varying texture. I have to admit; I think Wyoming is the most naturally colorful state I’ve seen (this coming from a Florida girl!).
I’ve flown over the U.S. dozens of time visiting Corey on the West Coast when I was on the East during our time long distance. Viewing the country through the window of an airplane does not compare to the experience of driving the land. I had no idea so much was out here. I think the best way to see America is in a car, constantly looking out the window for wild animals, constantly being blown away and humbled by every bold mountain peak, and at an intimate level with the place we call Home.
Day 23 – Corey’s Entry – May 5 – 8:55am – Muddy Guard Cabin – Bighorn National Forest, Wyoming
There’s a lot on my mind today. Lots to reflect on and mull over. First, I’ll just describe this place. Bighorn, WY. Wyoming has so much to offer. In one day we drove from the mountain peaks of the Tetons, through snowy and frozen lakes, farmland, then canyons of layered colorful rocks. Then we arrived to the grassy plains. We’ve seen open fields and big skies. Herds of deer dot the land. Spots of forest can be found everywhere.
Last night was especially exciting for me. I planned on doing a time lapse of the stars, which would require hours spent outdoors late at night in pitch dark, because my light source could ruin the flow of the time-lapse. As soon as I stepped outside, I hear a loud “Ahr, Ahr, Ahroooooooo!!!” It was a wolf or coyote a stone's throw away howling at the full moon. I couldn’t see it, but I could hear it must have been just at the tree line.
An ancient, instinctual fear arose inside of me, and chills ran down my spine. I wasn’t really afraid... Oh wait, yes I was. I kept thinking about listening to “White Fang” on audio book earlier that day. I stayed in and edited that night instead of staying outside. Emily and I ended up in a tan, leather chair, curled up by the fire listening to David Bowie’s “Ground Control to Major Tom” on an old, Magnavox radio. I will cherish that beautiful moment.
My understanding of time changes more everyday on this adventure. Living like nomads, time is so precious and moves so fast. I’m a man of schedules, plans, and routines. One of my biggest challenges has been most of our plans going right out the window.
In the morning, we get up around 6am, make breakfast, pack up camp, pack up the car, reorganize the car, clean everything, then if we have the time, write and photograph. On the road, we often need to resupply, so we go off to find somewhere that resembles a grocery store, a camping store (to replace busted gear), or a diner to charge our devices and blog. Then we can continue heading to our next site. We usually arrive before sunset.
It’s funny looking back at when we thought we would have time to check out the new Avenger’s movie or I could finish that Bill Bryson book I was reading. It amazes us at the end of each day when we look back and realize that every minute of the day was spent working. But everyday feels worth it. I shoot sunrises and photograph the stars. Being productive comes naturally to me; it’s something my mother gave me.
Every day is precious. God limits our days so that we learn to appreciate each one. On this journey we experience the high highs and low lows. It’s important not to dwell on the low moments. As Adam Savage from Mythbusters says, “There is no failure, there is only results.” Get out there and make the most of yourself and your situation! I can’t tell you how important it has been to me to travel in the wild and new cities. If you get out there, you will be surprised what you learn about yourself and the world around us.
